I’m confused. I found a statement on the web by Andreas Ebner about their varietals (Cabernet sauvignon 25 %, Cabernet franc 25 %, Merlot 25 %, Pinot noir 25 %) which does not include Chardonnay. I also read somewhere that Mr. Ebner made his 2006 Chardonnay from grapes he bought from other producers. But the label says it differently. Anyway. Mr. Ebner has (with or without Chardonnay) 6.5 hectares in the Tök area, on Nyakashegy to be more precise near Mozsgó. I’ve never been there myself.

This is my last purchase in a row of seeking good value white wines under 5-6 euros a bottle for long, hot summer days. So far with little success (Chardonany, Furmint, and a positive example, a cuvée).

The review

Pale hay color with green reflections. It comes with some bobbles and with a smell of added sulphur dioxide which slowly disappears – too slowly. No floral smells but some aromas. Acids are palpable in the back of the tongue only, lasting not too long. I don’t expect so much acid without fruity and floral compensation in a Chardonnay. It has a drop of gooseberry though, but altogether it’s a very simple wine with a sensation of added sparkling water. I tasted the Szabó Riesling from the day before, and it’s a whole other world.

This Ebner Chardonnay is perfectly suitable for college people drinking in group having a good time and a simple meal – this wine will definitely not distract the attention from the conversation. I’m really hesitating between 3+ and 4-. It’s another sunny day, so…

Score: 4-

Price: EUR 5

Dereszla wines captured my imaginations throught their Dorombor recently, then I was drown to this particular Dry by American starblogger, showman and first of all wine merchant Gary Vaynerchuk’s coverage of this white wine.

Gary’s been mostly positive about Hungarian white wines for some time now but he’s enthousiasm for this cuvée (which by the way he describes as pure Furmint) was extraordinary even by Gary’s standards.

I wrote a few days ago about the little information available on the web about Dereszla and it hasn’t change too much since then.

Very bright color, almost transparent. Smells grassy and walnut, even marzipan and a touch of vanilla. But it’s also mineral in both taste and smell. Walnut is actually quite long on the upper-mouth area whilst the mineral touch stays even longer at the tongue, giving the wine a nice, long finish. It’s 14% alcohol burns a little bit but it makes its creamy texture more attractive. It’s a bit sweet for a dry wine supported by medium acidity. It’s similar to Dorombor but not as fresh and a little bit more full-bodied. And round. The second glass is actually better. As the glass gets warmer the Hárslevelű (used in minor extent together with Muskotály) undertone becomes more palpable.

Score: 5, 5+

Price: EUR 6

Light golden color just a little bit darker than the Hétszőlő and Dereszla Furmints. It’s typical Furmint smell in more intense than the above two’s. The sweetness in the front of the tongue and the bitterness in the back and on the two sides seem to come from two different wines.

The sour and bitter tastes stay much much longer. This style is more comparable to the Dessewffy brand of Hétszőlő. I decide to cool it down a bit more and it got slightly better indeed, I could even smell some vanilla although this is a reductive wine. It’s 14% alcohol is not burning, but gives a pleasant warming sensation.

Pumped, the wine hardly loses from its quiality in 24 hours.

This wine was voted „Top Wine” of Pannon Bormustra 2007.

Score: 4-

Price: EUR 5,5

I’m convinced that most Hungarians, laymen and professionals alike, tend to overrate Hungarian wines sometimes to the point where even faults are considered local character. Although vast majority of my readers come from abroad who probably do not have such preconcepts, I decided to launch a series of blind tests comparing Hungarian wines of all price ranges with their counterparts in Central Europe, Europe and the new world. I’ll call this column International Perspective.

The intention is twofolds: first is very ambitious and certainly will generate some discussion and anger, and it is to try to define the value of well known and relatively unknown Hungarian wines. Secondly, through these comparisons we might be able to discover the terroir, the Hungarian character (if there is such a thing like Hungarian character).

Dereszla

Dereszla is a relatively small French winery in Tokaj, home of sweet dessert wines and emerging white wines mostly made of Furmint and Hárslevelű. Sauvingon Blanc is not an authorised Tokaj variety hence you’ll find „Zempléni” region on the label and no Tokaj.

Halewood

Halewood is a major producer and distributor of wine and alcoholic beverages in Britain.

The Group manages over 400 hectares of vines in three major wine areas of Romania: Dealu Mare, Podisul Transilvaniei and Murfatlar.

Whilst Halewood has an informative, though not very ergonomic website, Dereszla has nothing of their own on the web.

Some official information about the wine from the Halewood website:

2006 started with a late spring after a long and freezing winter with temperatures reaching -26°C. The average temperature of the year was 25°C, this having a positive effect on the shoots growth (up to 12 cm/day). Due to the high temperatures during the summer the ripening of the berries took place earlier and the picking of the grapes began according to the fully maturation of each variety.

In the second half of September, at harvest time, there took place a careful selection of the grapes coming from Dobrogea Plateau. A controlled fermentation was undergone at the temperature of 12-14°C, for about 8-10 days with selected yeasts. Alcohol volume 12.5%.

Since it was a hot summer day both wines were cooled to appr. 7-8 Celsius degrees but this turned out to be good temperature for both wines.

The first wine had bright straw color and fresh fruity smell later with a little bit of cinnamon and lemon skin. Well-structured wine with a little bit of sweetness (it’s still a dry wine) with a little bit of wet hay undertone, but not disturbingly. Overall a lovable, soft, light wine without major faults and without a special character, but very refreshing.

Score: 5+

The second wine had very bright color, very intense perfume smell and although I’ve never tasted it before, I immediately recogninsed the Dereszla character. Diffrerent trees in bloom but mostly elderberry which also dominates in its taste. Very fresh, almost crispy but with a little bit of extra sweetness which is supported by round acidity so it’s rather soft. At higher temperature both wines were a little bit overly sweet to my taste but at around 10 degrees celsius, it’s a delicious, very lovable, festive wine.

Score: 6

To me the Dereszla Sauvignon Blanc had more character and was lacking the hay undertone, but the Halewood Sauvignon Blanc from Prahova Valley is also a very good value for money. To be honest, if the Halewood was one year younger, maybe the difference would not have been that significant.

Price: EUR 7

The winner of the label contest is the Halewood to me.

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Some would say yes. So let’s check.

About Vylyan

The death of the founder of this relatively new winery hasn’t been unnoticed although his philosophy remained fundamentally the same. 7 000 vines per hectare, 1.8m x 0.8m vineyard density, 30 hectolitres per hectare on average – on 125 hectares, this indicates their commitment to high concentration for their best wines. And a lot of attention to all aspects of the élevage. With so much land in Villány, You cannot expect that all of it is very well located though.

In choosing their grape varieties they lay emphasis on both international varieties (Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Pinot Noir, Syrah) and local varieties (Kadarka, Blaufrankisch, Portugieser, Zweigelt).

About Montenuovo Cuvée 2006

Montenuovo cuvée is the Minestrone soup of Vylyan: its ingredients vary each season as well as its quality can be somewhat volatile. Still it will be a minestrone. The continuity is brought into this product line by a relatively good value for money and a seek for full-bodied, easy to enjoy, intensely tasty style. Well-done in 2006.

I don’t need to understand the concept behind Montenuovo’s always changing composition to like these wines. However, You might wonder how have Cabernet Franc and Zweigelt replaced Pinot Noir over the years. If you approach this from the other way around then it’s better to say that Vylyan’s goal could be to provide a relatively constant upper-medium quality popular red wine as well as to consume all they can produce in an optimal way. But this would be jumping to conclusion.

Since Montenuovo is an affordable non-entry level wine hence quite popular in restaurants it’s quite possible that You’re already familiar to this name. Here’s my notes, my opinion as of today.

Review

Deep cherry color, almost blackberry. Farm animal smell rather than fruits. Oily but with high acid content (for a Villányi) and medium of tannin. It’s 14,5%alcohol is palpable. It took awhile to realise that the unusual component in taste derives from Zweigelt grapes, which makes it an interesting cuvée but not a very lovely one. But maybe it’s just my habits that make it a bit intolerable in an otherwise quite commonly composed cuvée. Its smell also lack character.

A day after opening the bottle its tannins become smoother, those few fruits gave place to chocolate, new oak and tobacco, but not to the extent of a heavy Cabernet Sauvignon of course. It’s still a good wine if served at good temperature (my guess is around 15 degrees Celsius) although I can smell some rotten, fermenting fruit taste in it at the end.

It’s an overall good wine and good value for money. Don’t expect to buy the same wine with a Montenuovo 2007 label on it, so this could be another reason to purchase it.

Score:6-

Price: EUR 11,5