This is a blend of 34% Olaszrizling, 28% Chardonnay, 26% Leányka and 12% Viognier. Of these, 15% is alcohol.
Lovely vibrant lemon yellow. Exciting nose of salty-chalky minerals mingled with light honey and veggie stock. Slightly sweet on the palate, with Viognier being dominant in taste, overly so if you ask me. Hours later melon aroma emerge.
Serve chilled!
The Mór wine festival accidentally falls onto the same days as the more prestigious Villány and Tokaj wine festivals. The less known event however attracted a crowd this saturday that completely filled the streets despite the chilly wind. Mór offered them a street music festival combined with a typical Hungarian country street event (i.e. tons of unhealthy food, vattacukor and usual market crap) with families of all ages from the surrounding cities and villages and, to my biggest surprise, foreign visitors. I’ve heard French and English words, besides the German spoken by a band marching the streets dressed like… whatever (I believe however that these musical events and football games provide you with a unique opportunity to see man of all ages feeling good in their long white socks showing off. Skirts are just an extra here).
Anyway, I had to drink very quickly because my wife’s been fluttering like the kocsonya (missing from the menu, btw, and it’s a Hungarian food if you would be wondering, basically cold pork bone soup with pork leg in it) so I had no opportunity to discover the rule(s) which drive people to one winery’s quiosque and make them completely ignore others.
The Information stand however had a middle-aged lady who not only distributed brochures but knew all of the winemakers I asked her about by nickname (I didn’t, so I had to double-check them). I still missed Pontica.
Due to the strong wind and a rush, my tasting notes are very short and quite unreliable.
Miklóscsabi – Utazótáska, 2007
This Királyleányka has pale bright color, round acidity and crab apple and pie character on the palate, completed with residual sugar leaving a fresh impression.
Score: 3+, 4-
Bozóky – Leányka, 2007
Pale, almost transparent color with greenish reflexions. Less intense with less bitterness and acidity, but overall a pleasant wine.
Score: 3+/4-
Bozóky – Cuvée, 2007
Pale yellow with greenish reflexions, just like the Királyleányka and other Bozóky wines to follow. Bozóky is considered a major winery in Mór but even their cellar is quite small. The old lady who took care of the visitors was very friendly and responsive considering that they attracted most of the visitors interested in a tour in a local cellar. I never quite understood though how can people enjoy a glass of wine in a crowded, smelly room. These notes were taken outside of the building.
So the Cuvée has a similar pale tone as the others. It’s smoother with less acidity but with a more intense nose and flavors.
Score: 4-
Bozóky – Ezerjó, 2006
Pale yellow color. More elegant than the others but still with a quite short finish. Better structure and better integrated even with a mineral undertone and an appealing cabbage-like finish.
Score: 4
Miklóscsabi – Haramia Cuvée, 2007
This semi-dry Cuvée is made of Tramini, Leányka and Pinot Blanc. It’s full-bodied compared to the previous ones and this late harvest character is dominant until the finish. It has a distinctive pale-brassy color. The residual sugar is supported by nice, round acidity. It has better structure than the Bozóky wines. A velvet-vanilla undertone complete the overall nice sensation.
Score: 5 points
Maurus – Leányka, 2007
Medium-pale golden color and floral notes on the nose. Well balanced with medium body, round acidity and long finish.
I have to note here that the Maurus wines have very nice labels. And although only the Ezerjó is produced by Kamocsay (on a total of 0,7 hectares) the wines to follow somehow have a common stylish element.
Score: 4 points
Maurus – Sauvignon Blanc, 2007
Remarkably nice onion-brassy color and nice, round acidity.
Score: 4+/5
Maurus – Rajnai Rizling, 2007
Pale yellow with green-apple reflexions. On the palate oaky-vanilla notes maybe a little bit over the top. On the palate fruity elements and some residual sugar are supported by medium acidity. It’s a nice riesling with a long finish.
Score: 5+/6-
Maurus – Ezerjó, 2007
Pale bright yellow. On the palate complex aromas of vanilla, oak and floral notes with gooseberry and acacia elements and round acidity. A little bit sweeter than it should be for a dry wine.
Score: 6/6-
Maurus – Chardonnay
Elegant wine with some oaky vanilla and appealing bitter acidity and a tobacco-like undertone.
Score: 6 points
Posted: October 6th, 2008
Categories:
3 points,
4 points,
5 points,
6 points,
Mór,
Wine reviews
Tags:
2006,
2007,
Chardonnay,
Ezerjó,
Festivals & events,
Királyleányka,
leányka,
Rajnai rizling,
Sauvignon Blanc,
white
Comments:
No Comments.
I don’t even dare to translate the word “Bországgyűlés” for You, although the significant number of foreigners who visited the event despite the heavy rain which lasted almost the whole day would deserve a try. Anyway, it wasn’t a gathering of the nations’ parliamentary delegates of winemaking as the name would suggest, I was actually surprised by the small number of wineries present, but even more by their distribution within the festival area. Despite the intense grass and other natural smell coming from the surrounding park in the rain I tried to take tasting notes. My idea was that I would taste and review the winners of the VIIth Pannon Bormustra contest. Unfortunately very few of the winners actually exhibited at the Festival so I’ll indicate in the table below those who won the “Top Wine” awarded by a jury consisting of international experts like Dante Brancaleoni and winemakers like René Rostaing as well as Hungarian wine drinkers or so called experts. As always, please read the following report as a rough guide only, since I hardly ever spit during a wine tasting (unless the wine is really rubbish) and the local food selection has also provided a strong smelly background which certainly distorted the senses. So here’s a quick snapshot from the Festival, without any in-depth analysis.
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Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
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On-site tasting notes.
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Ludányi
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Elizabeth Cuvée
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2007
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4-
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Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not very interesting wine.
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Degenfeld
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Furmint
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2006
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3+
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Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
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Lesence
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Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)
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2007
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6- (or 6)
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Elegant acid and smell, nice finish. Easy, light.
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Top Wine
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Tornai
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Grófi Hárslevelű
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2006
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6, 6+
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Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow.
This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
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Dereszla
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Dorombor
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2007
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6+, 7-
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80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said
Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.
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Top Wine
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Orsolya
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Pnot Noir
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2006
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5/5-
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Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
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Scheller
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Áldozói Chardonnay
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2003
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7-
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Pontica
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(Móri) Ezerjó
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2006
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4+
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It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there.
I’m curious about their new works.
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Kikelet
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Furmint (Tokaj)
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2006
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Outstanding smell, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
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Kikelet
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Hárslevelű
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2006
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5+, (6-?)
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Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
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Orsolya
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Hermány Leányka
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2006
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6
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Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.
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Here’s a photo from the venue of one of Budapest’s most important wine festivals.

Posted: June 8th, 2008
Categories:
3 points,
4 points,
6 points,
7 points,
Degenfeld,
Dereszla,
Festivals & events,
Lesence,
Ludányi,
Mór,
Orsolya,
Pontica,
Scheller,
Shopping,
Tokaj,
Tornai,
Wine reviews
Tags:
2006,
2007,
Chardonnay,
Dorombor,
Ezerjó,
furmint,
Hárslevelű,
leányka,
Pinot Noir,
red,
Riesline,
Rizling,
white
Comments:
1 Comment.
I must admit I am not a regular festival visitor and I was surprised by the size of the Somló Tavasz festival: about a dozen twin kiosks, a hundred visitors and a huge tent describe well the scale of this event on the meadow on the outskirts of Somlóvásárhely. According to my winemaker friend, 40% of the visitors are regular festivalgoers who never miss one (hence the marketing value of the event is a bit questionable). All ages and all types of people were present: old ladies from the neighbouring villages sat in the tent quitely sipping their drinks while staring at the stage to check the appearance of a folklore dance group, there were families wandering around, kids riding horses, and some young folks trying to get a bit drunk. I really couldn’t spot any of the urban yuppies here who usually frequent these types of events. And no foreigners either.
It was charming and looked more like a big family reunion in a family where winemaking tradition’s got its roots from times when Juhfark was not yet recognised as a standalone grape.
Besides the local names (Györgykovács, Tornai, etc.) almost the same number of guest winemakers offered their wines, with few exceptions almost only from 2006 and 2005.
I really don’t think that festivals allow you to do some in-depth analysis of wine, it’s rather a quick scan of where are we standing and tasting unknown wines and trying to memorise those that you would like to try at home. So here are my notes, but since I did swallow all of these (at least in quantities of 1/2 dl) the objectivity is questionalbe. So I keep the order, I leave it to you what “filter” you apply to my judgement.
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Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
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|
On-site tasting notes.
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Laposa
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Olaszrizling
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2005
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5+
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Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.
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Fair value
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Kreinbacher
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Olaszrizling
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2005
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4
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Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.
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Overrated
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Györgykovács
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Olaszrizling
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2006
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6
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Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.
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Fair value, almost best buy
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Tornai
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Olaszrizling Selection
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2006
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6-, 6
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Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.
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Fair value, almost best buy
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Laposa
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Bazaltbor, juhfark
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2006
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5+
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Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!
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Tornai
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Juhfark selection
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2006
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7
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Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.
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Györgykovács
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Furmint
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2006
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5-
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Apple.
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Györgykovács
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Tramini
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2006
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6
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Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.
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Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)
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Hárslevelű
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2006
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3+
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Forgettable.
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Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)
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Furmint
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2006
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Kaló Imre
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Leányka
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2001
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Intense smell, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!
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Györgykovács
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Hárslevelű
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4
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Average.
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Tornai
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Olaszrizling
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4-
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Sparkling. Cheap.
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A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.
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Posted: May 18th, 2008
Categories:
3 points,
4 points,
5 points,
6 points,
7 points,
Balatonfelvidék,
Best price,
Eger,
Györgykovács,
Kaló Imre,
Kreinbacher,
Laposa,
Somló,
Takács Lajos,
Tokaj,
Tornai,
Wine reviews
Tags:
2001,
2005,
2006,
best buy,
fair value,
Festivals & events,
furmint,
juhfark,
leányka,
olaszrizling,
Overrated,
tramini,
white
Comments:
2 Comments.