What I wrote yesterday about Tóth István’s Kékfrankos 2003 applies for all of his wines, with more or less minor changes. So instead of repeating myself I present you the delta between the two wines.

First of all this is a blend, a Bikavér as we know it but don’t let this convention confuse you. The only difference on the nose is that this Bikavér has more wild mushroom notes and some sour cherry, but fundamentally very barrell influenced just as the Kékfrankos. The tannin’s a bit scratchy sometimes.

Hangács Bikavér 2008 is almost identical to Áldás 2008 (aka El fin de la inocencia) except that it’s not. And not just that Syrah didn’t make it to the blend at Hangács (and it’s not the less oak either). It looks like only Pinot Noir did. Hangács Pinot Noir 2006 wasn’t a huge wine itself but I wonder if Hangács Pinot Noir 2008 is any different from the Bikavér Blend made in 2008.

St. Andrea – Hangács Bikavér, 2008

Medium ruby, clear and lively. Spicy bouquet with hints of anise, clove and Açaí berry, very Pinot Noir-esque. Fresh but warm style on the palate with very smooth tannins and a sour cherry core bitterness. Loose in terms of structure, thinner than Áldás first, as far as I can judge, but feels bit more weighty after some exposure to air. The acidity remains a bit scratchy on the midpalate for hours but the palate will be packed full of fine dark chocolate.

Should be decanted long before drinking. Not so expressive at present, this Bikavér may still age better than Áldás 2008.

One more remark: this wine shouldn’t have passed the Bikavér examination. Because it’s not one.

Price: HUF 3 750

Now that the Hungarian Constitution incorporates (our non-existent) Christianity I sort of feel being under pressure to write more about exuberantly religious winemakers. I kind of hope this could be used in my favour (as an extenuating circumstance) when the full dictatorship finally takes place in the middle of the Carpatians and censorship will eventually (and inevitably) become part of our everyday life.

St. Andrea – Áldás, 2008

This is a Bikavér and as such, predictably unpredictable blend, but Kékfrankos, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, Pinot Noir and Menoir make a unique yet approachable wine here. Fresh, medium dark ruby with purplish shades. The nose is dried tobacco leaves with some alcohol coming through. The ample palate is smoothly styled with a chewy mix of fruits presented in a soft velvety texture and with a long, delicately sour tannic finish. Medium bodied wine with well rounded, very subtle and perfectly integrated acidity.

Not too exciting but well made wine, would go well with a bistro meal.

Price: HUF 3000

After so many years Bikavér (or “Bulls Blood”) still brings bad memories of semi-dry, medium-bodied wines which is so unfair today, or at least partly. Today Bikavér is more and more a mid-range cuvée in the assortment of the wineries, a must-have piece if you were from Szekszárd or Egerand in many cases it’s no longer the “the blend of the leftover grapes” but a conceptually designed cuvée, often Bordeaux-styled one.

Now a Bikavér made of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Kékfrankos, Zweigelt, Blauburger and Portugieser is a bit suspicious to say the least. In the Bolyki Egri Bikavér from 2005 you can find all of these in an undisclosed mix. I already complained about the inconsistent character of the Hungarian cuvées and I’m really curious about next (or previous’ ) year’s Bolyki Bikavér from a mix perspective.

The review

Medium deep ruby color with purplish reflections (actually it’s almost purple with ruby reflections). This Bikavér’s nose is pepper and spices, not intense and not fruity but pleasant and interesting. This is a medium-bodied wine with more than medium acidity supporting a dry, smoothly tannic texture. The palate has a distant red currant and unripe cherry aroma but it’s more or less empty with occasional Zweigelt-Kékfrankos-Portugieser elements.This little is well integrated, the wine has a relatively good although thin structure. Later there’s some berry fruit on the nose and the day after a bit of leather and tobacco , on the palate tobacco.

Score: 4-/4

Price: HUF 2 250

Following the white wines I’m going to share with you know my notes from the on-site tasting at the Bodri Pincészet.

Bodri – Kadarka, 2007

Very nice fig color! Slightly darker than a typical Kadarka.

The pleasant nose carries notes of cherry and sour cherry.

On the palate the medium tannic acidity is a bit too much for the small body, especially that no fruits can be found there. It has an unpleasant sherry-like finish. I can’t read the rest of my notes, I’m very sorry.

Score: 4+ points

Bodri – Pinot Noir, 2007

A brownish fig color.

Car-leather nose with cognac accent, quite elegant.

On the palate lot of cherry and velvety tannins with a brandy/Port-wine-like underpinning. The 13,5% alcohol is fine here.

Score: 5

Bodri – Bikavér, 2005

50% Kékfrankos, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5-5% Zweigelt and Kadarka make this Bikavér quite confusing, with dark color but a lively move. It’s a bit woody with nice, although deft tannins not yet smooth and with chalky leather and red beet elements on the palate. With time, tobacco too. The wine could have more body.

Score: 4 points

Bodri – Kékfrankos, 2006

Phosphoric nose, woody on the palate.

Bodri, Kékfrankos Szelekcio, 2004

Brick color with ruby accent. More elegant on the nose and on the palate too with smooth, almost oily tannins. Intense cherry, berry fruit and peppermint nose and alcohol (14%), medium body.

Score: 5, 6- points

Bodri – Optimus, 2006

This cuvéé (20% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) has a less intense, less fruity, instead smoky nose with some tobacco, leather and chocolate. More elegant than the Kékfrankos Selection. This full-bodied wine has smoother tannins.

Score: 6, 6- points

Bodri – Merlot, 2004

Bodri did not make Merlot in 2005 but he’s still got bottles left from 2004.

Pleasant nose. Full-bodied wine but a bit woody on the palate. Burning alcohol, along with residual sugar.

Score: 6 points