Budapest Daily Review

After so many years Bikavér (or “Bulls Blood”) still brings bad memories of semi-dry, medium-bodied wines which is so unfair today, or at least partly. Today Bikavér is more and more a mid-range cuvée in the assortment of the wineries, a must-have piece if you were from Szekszárd or Egerand in many cases it’s no longer the “the blend of the leftover grapes” but a conceptually designed cuvée, often Bordeaux-styled one.

Now a Bikavér made of Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Kékfrankos, Zweigelt, Blauburger and Portugieser is a bit suspicious to say the least. In the Bolyki Egri Bikavér from 2005 you can find all of these in an undisclosed mix. I already complained about the inconsistent character of the Hungarian cuvées and I’m really curious about next (or previous’ ) year’s Bolyki Bikavér from a mix perspective.

The review

Medium deep ruby color with purplish reflections (actually it’s almost purple with ruby reflections). This Bikavér’s nose is pepper and spices, not intense and not fruity but pleasant and interesting. This is a medium-bodied wine with more than medium acidity supporting a dry, smoothly tannic texture. The palate has a distant red currant and unripe cherry aroma but it’s more or less empty with occasional Zweigelt-Kékfrankos-Portugieser elements.This little is well integrated, the wine has a relatively good although thin structure. Later there’s some berry fruit on the nose and the day after a bit of leather and tobacco , on the palate tobacco.

Score: 4-/4

Price: HUF 2 250

Following the white wines I’m going to share with you know my notes from the on-site tasting at the Bodri Pincészet.

Bodri – Kadarka, 2007

Very nice fig color! Slightly darker than a typical Kadarka.

The pleasant nose carries notes of cherry and sour cherry.

On the palate the medium tannic acidity is a bit too much for the small body, especially that no fruits can be found there. It has an unpleasant sherry-like finish. I can’t read the rest of my notes, I’m very sorry.

Score: 4+ points

Bodri - Pinot Noir, 2007

A brownish fig color.

Car-leather nose with cognac accent, quite elegant.

On the palate lot of cherry and velvety tannins with a brandy/Port-wine-like underpinning. The 13,5% alcohol is fine here.

Score: 5

Bodri – Bikavér, 2005

50% Kékfrankos, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5-5% Zweigelt and Kadarka make this Bikavér quite confusing, with dark color but a lively move. It’s a bit woody with nice, although deft tannins not yet smooth and with chalky leather and red beet elements on the palate. With time, tobacco too. The wine could have more body.

Score: 4 points

Bodri – Kékfrankos, 2006

Phosphoric nose, woody on the palate.

Bodri, Kékfrankos Szelekcio, 2004

Brick color with ruby accent. More elegant on the nose and on the palate too with smooth, almost oily tannins. Intense cherry, berry fruit and peppermint nose and alcohol (14%), medium body.

Score: 5, 6- points

Bodri – Optimus, 2006

This cuvéé (20% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) has a less intense, less fruity, instead smoky nose with some tobacco, leather and chocolate. More elegant than the Kékfrankos Selection. This full-bodied wine has smoother tannins.

Score: 6, 6- points

Bodri – Merlot, 2004

Bodri did not make Merlot in 2005 but he’s still got bottles left from 2004.

Pleasant nose. Full-bodied wine but a bit woody on the palate. Burning alcohol, along with residual sugar.

Score: 6 points

Our Bikavér legacy is one of our largest burden from the socialist era (along with the semi-dry Nagyburgundi Kékfrankos and Debrői Hárslevelű). Wineries from Eger and Szekszárd were trying, but not exactly succeeded to contest who can produce better Bikavér (which I think is non-sense). Until the late nineties at least, when Tóth István produced his iconic Bikavér in 1999 and more or less decided the question for the next 9 years as many say so.

Or almost. Although a lost of people believe that the 1999 by Tóth István has remained unbeaten they must admit that the newest Tóth István Bikavér they could compare it with was the 2002 vintage. The normal (not Selection) Bikavér 2003 has been on the market for a year at least and the Selection 2003 will follow very soon (probably in September). The similarities with Brunellos does not stop here. 

The review

Medium-ruby color with ink reflections and brownish rim. 

The nose is berry fruits, mostly blackburry dissolved in Cognac. The style reminds me of Gróf Buttler’s. On the palate the oily tannic texture supports the Port-like (or even Cognac-like) impression which similar to the bouquet. The wine is as rich on the palate as on the nose. 

Asian spices and sweetness mingled with smoky undertone. The age of the wine is obvious, but still well-rounded with medium body getting full-bodied after an hour. With it’s smooth tannins the wine is very pleasant to drink. 

Hours later it shows cloudy purplish reflections. 

With 20% discount at the retailer, it’s a best buy in the Bikavér areana. And I can’t wait to taste the 2003, which is supposed to be a better (although lately criticized) year. 

Score: 6-7/10 (it really swings that much)

Price: HUF 3 500/ EUR 14 (full-price)