Our Bikavér legacy is one of our largest burden from the socialist era (along with the semi-dry Nagyburgundi Kékfrankos and Debrői Hárslevelű). Wineries from Eger and Szekszárd were trying, but not exactly succeeded to contest who can produce better Bikavér (which I think is non-sense). Until the late nineties at least, when Tóth István produced his iconic Bikavér in 1999 and more or less decided the question for the next 9 years as many say so.

Or almost. Although a lost of people believe that the 1999 by Tóth István has remained unbeaten they must admit that the newest Tóth István Bikavér they could compare it with was the 2002 vintage. The normal (not Selection) Bikavér 2003 has been on the market for a year at least and the Selection 2003 will follow very soon (probably in September). The similarities with Brunellos does not stop here. 

The review

Medium-ruby color with ink reflections and brownish rim. 

The nose is berry fruits, mostly blackburry dissolved in Cognac. The style reminds me of Gróf Buttler’s. On the palate the oily tannic texture supports the Port-like (or even Cognac-like) impression which similar to the bouquet. The wine is as rich on the palate as on the nose. 

Asian spices and sweetness mingled with smoky undertone. The age of the wine is obvious, but still well-rounded with medium body getting full-bodied after an hour. With it’s smooth tannins the wine is very pleasant to drink. 

Hours later it shows cloudy purplish reflections. 

With 20% discount at the retailer, it’s a best buy in the Bikavér areana. And I can’t wait to taste the 2003, which is supposed to be a better (although lately criticized) year. 

Score: 6-7/10 (it really swings that much)

Price: HUF 3 500/ EUR 14 (full-price)

It’s difficult to avoid to have high expectations if you open a bottle of Merlot from a legendary winemaker even from a not so good vintage. Bock József is one of the best known winemakers who gained his reputation for making some of the revolutionary wines in the nineties (well, with Hungarian standards, of course). I still have a bottle of his Royal Cuvée from 1996, which I found too old 2 years ago when I last opened one, but it’s still nostalgic and an interesting experience. Fortunately even most medium quality red wines’ qality from the new millennium exceed the quality of most “legendary” reds from the nineties. But for those who started to enjoy Hungarian wines in the nineties it’s always gonna be nostalgic to remember those days. But let’s leave nostalgy for another entry, I still keep a dozen or two bottles from that decade so I hope we can discuss them later.

The review

Surprisingly brick color, it looks much older than it is actually. Brick and stewed cherry.

Another surprise to me is the oily texture, the wine is literally slicing in the glass. The wine reminds me of Iporos 2006, a 91 points Parker wine which I did not like that much.

Very ripe cherry taste and lot of wood both is smell and in taste. It’s tannins remain harsh even after an hour. Just like in the nineties. Lot of wood.

I got a bit sentimental in the intro of this post I know. And this wine isn’t even that different from the Bock wines in the nineties. And I know he can do much better than this.

Score:5, 5+

Price: I don’t know how much I paid for it back then. The 2006 costs 13 euros. That would be way too much for the 2002. My perception is that most Bock wines are now overrated. Well, they’ve always been, but some of them are really good at least.