Budapest Daily Review

A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total

What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.

One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.

Tasting Scores 2008

Vylyan

Pinot Noir

2003

5+/6-

(in Q2 2008)

Gál Tibor

Cabernet Franc

2001

4

(in Q2 2008)

Tokaj Hétszőlő

Furmint

2006

5+/6-

(in Q2 2008)

Szecskő Tamás

Cuvée

2005

6

(in Q2 2008)

Gróf Buttler

Portugieser

2006

7+

(in Q2 2008)

Gróf Buttler

Kadarka

2006

3+

(in Q2 2008)

Mayer

Kopár Cuvée

2004

3+

(in Q2 2008)

Szt. Gaál

Kékfrankos

2005

6-/6

(in Q2 2008)

Malatinszky

Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique

2006

3+

OR

(in Q2 2008)

Chateau Dereszla

Dorombor

2006

6+/7-

BB

(in Q2 2008)

Tokaj Hétszőlő

Kövérszőlő

2006

6+/7-

(in Q2 2008)

Bezerics-Németh

Chardonnay Barrique

2006

3-

OR

(in Q2 2008)

Vylyan

Montenuovo Cuvée

2006

6-

(in Q2 2008)

Cramele Halewood

Sauvignon Blanc

2006

5+

FV

(in Q2 2008)

Chateau Dereszla

Sauvignon Blanc

2007

6+

BB

(in Q2 2008)

Vylyan

Villányi Rizling

2006

3

OR

(in Q2 2008)

Dereszla

Dry

2006

5, 5+

FV

(in Q2 2008)

Oremus

Mandolás Furmint

2003

7, 7+

FV, BB

(in Q2 2008)

Szabó Zoltán

Sauvignon Blanc

6+, 7-

BB

(in Q3 2008)

Ebner

Chardonnay

2006

3+

(in Q3 2008)

Ebner

Portugieser

2007

3+

(in Q3 2008)

Bock

Merlot

2002

5+

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Pontica

Móri Ezerjó

2006

7-

FV/BB

(in Q3 2008)

Degenfeld

Muscat Lunel

2007

4

(in Q3 2008)

Leo

Riesling

2006

3+

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Hilltop

Chardonnay

2006

3

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Heimann

Merlot

2006

5, 5+

FV

(in Q3 2008)

Heimann

Kerkaborum

2006

6, 6+

BB

(in Q3 2008)

Bussay

Esküvé

2006

5

FV

(in Q3 2008)

Ch. Megyer

Chardonnay

2005

6, 6+

BB

(in Q3 2008)

Dereszla

Furmint Szegi

2006

5+

(in Q3 2008)

Heumann

Kékrankos Barrique

2006

6

FV (only just)

(in Q3 2008)

Toth István

Bikavér Válogatás

2002

6+/7-

(in Q3 2008)

Jamek

Riesling Jochinger

2007

5, 5+

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Domane Wachau

Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel

2005

6, 6+

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Eurobor

Tűzkő Szelekcio

2006

5+, 6-

FV

(in Q3 2008)

Tokaj Hétszőlő

Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos

2001

8-

FV

(in Q3 2008)

Gere Attila

Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique

2000

4, 5-

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Gere Attila

Kopár Cuvée

2000

7+, 8-

(in Q3 2008)

Velezvin

Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée

4-

(in Q3 2008)

Pannonhalmi Apátsági

Rajnai Rizling

2007

4

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Légli Ottó

Olasrizling

3-

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Eurobor

Tűzkő Domb Cuvée

2005

5

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Légli

Sauvignon Blanc

2007

5+/6-

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Eurobor

Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc

2007

4/4-

FV

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Kadarka

2007

4

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció

2007

4-

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Olaszrizling

2007

4-

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Rosé

2007

5-/5

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Kadarka

2007

4+

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Pinot Noir

2007

5

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Bikavér

2005

4

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Kékfrankos

2006

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Kékfrankos Szelekció

2004

5/6-

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Optimus

2006

6/6-

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Merlot

2004

6

(in Q4 2008)

Ráspi

Sauvignon Blanc

2007

7

BB

(in Q4 2008)

Monarchia

Chardonnay (Battonage)

2006

7-/7

BB

(in Q4 2008)

Eurobor

Renana

2007

3+

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Eszterbauer

Nagyapám

2006

3+

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Gróf Buttler

Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő

2003

6/6+ (6+/7-)

(in Q4 2008)

Tamás Pince

Oriolus Cuvée

2004

5+/6

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Gróf Buttler

Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500

2005

6-7

(in Q4 2008)

Takler

Cuvée Maffiózó

2000

5+/6- (6+)

(in Q4 2008)

Ráspi

Mágus Cuvée

2006

6

FV

(in Q4 2008)

Eszterbauer

Merterünk Cuvée

2006

5

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Ráspi

Leányka

2007

3+ (but interesting)

(in Q4 2008)

Ráspi

Rosé Cuvé

2007

4

(in Q4 2008)

Monarchia

Grüner Veltliner

2006

3+

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Csányi Pincészet

Teleki cabernet Sauvignon

2006

4-

FV

(in Q4 2008)

Konyári

Loliense

2006

6-

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Wine Festival

Tasting Scores

Móri Bornapok 2008

On-site tasting notes.

Miklóscsabi

Utazótáska

2007

3+/4-

Bozóky

Leányka

2007

3+/4-

Bozóky

Cuvée

2007

4-

Bozóky

Ezerjó

2006

4

Miklóscsabi

Haramia Cuvée

2007

5

Maurus

Leányka

2007

4

Maurus

Sauvignon Blanc

2007

4+/5

Maurus

Rajnai Rizling

2007

5+/6-

Maurus

Eezrjó

2007

6/6-

Maurus

Chardonnay

2007

6


VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008

On-site tasting notes.

Ludányi

Elizabeth Cuvée

2007

4-

Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine.

Degenfeld

Furmint

2006

3+

Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.

Lesence

Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)

2007

6- (or 6)

Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light.

Top Wine

Tornai

Grófi Hárslevelű

2006

6, 6+

Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow.

This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.

Dereszla

Dorombor

2007

6+, 7-

80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said

Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.

Top Wine

Orsolya

Pnot Noir

2006

5/5-

Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.

Scheller

Áldozói Chardonnay

2003

7-

Pontica

(Móri) Ezerjó

2006

4+

It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there.

I’m curious about their new works.

Kikelet

Furmint (Tokaj)

2006

Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.

Kikelet

Hárslevelű

2006

5+, (6-?)

Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.

Orsolya

Hermány Leányka

2006

6

Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.

Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008

On-site tasting notes.

Laposa

Olaszrizling

2005

5+

Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.

Fair value

Kreinbacher

Olaszrizling

2005

4

Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.

Overrated

Györgykovács

Olaszrizling

2006

6

Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.

Fair value, almost best buy

Tornai

Olaszrizling Selection

2006

6-, 6

Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.

Fair value, almost best buy

Laposa

Bazaltbor, juhfark

2006

5+

Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!

Tornai

Juhfark selection

2006

7

Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.

Györgykovács

Furmint

2006

5-

Apple.

Györgykovács

Tramini

2006

6

Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.

Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)

Hárslevelű

2006

3+

Forgettable.

Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)

Furmint

2006

Kaló Imre

Leányka

2001

Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!

Györgykovács

Hárslevelű

4

Average.

Tornai

Olaszrizling

4-

Sparkling. Cheap.

A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.

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Struggeling with food pairing

Posted in 4 points, 5 points, Fertőrákos, Malatinszky, Ráspi, Wine reviews by admin on the December 28th, 2008

I’m not particularly good in pairing food and wines. Although I became interested in it I’ve never had the time to learn about it. Besides, my major problem is always whether to pick a wine and chose the right food, or the other way around. To be honest, I don’t think the first makes too much sense. And since I think (and maybe I’m wrong) that most wines will show their best values and will be most enjoyable if one didn’t eat anything at all for hours prior to or during drinking the wine, this, most of the time doesn’t cause any problem to me. I usually taste a wine for hours before finishing the bottle off with some food. Restaurants and Xmas are exceptions.

So in the case of the wines in this post, I tasted them first before any meal but eventually we started eating before I could finish my several hours long drinking for only the pleasure of it.

Ráspi – Mithras Cuvée, 2006

Medium pale color. Not very clean, as you can see on the picture.

mithras

This cuvée has a very unusual nose. First, its very complex, I felt I couldn’t name one third of the aromas I could sniff. Second, it’s very light and medium fresh. But most important of all, it’s very different. Well, there are  common intense floral and vinous notes an Irsai Olivér would have, but there’s minerality too and this unsolvable thing which is very Ráspi.

On the palate it has the usual salty-minerality character with the above mentioned Irsai elements and a grassy undertone. The wine has medium-small body and a good structure for such. The biting salty-minerality in the middle of the tongue soon moves backwards and leaves a long finish back there, with some bitterness sitting on the salt.

Later the nose develops into a very interesting ramen soup with crab, which is very interesting and pleasant.

Socre: 4/4+

Price: HUF 1 000 (This is how much I paid to the winemaker but the actual retail price is unknown to me)

Hétszőlő – Hárslevelű Late Harvest ,2005

Bright golden color. It has a fruity nose with intense pear aromas. On the palate, stewed pear, peach and later apple elements and a medium level of acidic sensation. Not bad from someone who only really believes in Aszú wines in Tokaj.

Score: 4 points

Bussay – Esküvé, 2006

Everything I wrote here still applies to the wine. Acidic character with a medium-small body, pale color and lively move. I gave it 4 points this time but it really may be just because of the wines and food I had before drinking it. Still a good wine, fairly priced.

Malatinszky – Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000

Medium deep brownish-ruby color with a brick color rim. It has a lively move at opening. I don’t know whether it has any scientific reason or it’s just my mind playing tricks on me but I tend to see old wines getting darker, slower and more concentrated after a few hours of decanting. This is what happened with this wine as well.

malatinszkycs

From opening it has a chalky-smoky character on the nose mingled with black-currant and later black-berry and sour cherry. Interestingly its tannins are very soft at opening but becoming harsh after a few minutes before finally smoothing again. The wine has a bit more than medium acidity and a sour-bitter character from the beginning until several hours later. It’s relatively small body is made more pleasant by a nutmeat element on the palate.

Score: 5, 5+ points

C. Da Silva S.A. (V.N. De Gaia) – Cruzados (Vinho de Porto)

Drinking Port wine at Xmas is considered a major treason by many Hungarians. I had different plans myself (although I’m not one of them), but my father suggested to open a Port wine which we brought to him from Portugal in 2001. The label has no vintage which in Porto means that it’s a mix of different (sometimes poorer) vintages.

The special about the wine is that unlike most Port wines this one is a white Port but I’m not sure if it’s actually made of white grapes. Anyway, it has a pale rum color with orange-brassy reflections. It also has a very appealing bottle which also reminds me of old rum bottles.

The nose is dried-grape, burnt sugar and cognac and the palate provides further evidence of brandy: the alcohol (19%) burns. This wine spent a lot of time in barrel and this, combined with the above elements doesn’t allow any tannin or acidity to be noticed. On the other hand it has a long praline-like finish with herbs and canned quince elements added.

I’m not sure if it would be fair to compare a Port wine with any other wine so I won’t give any points here. Let’s just say that it’s a very pleasant drink but doesn’t really compare to a Tokaji or a Sauternes.

port


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Back to the future

Posted in 3 points, 6 points, Malatinszky, Szt. Gaál, Villány, Wine reviews by admin on the May 24th, 2008

It’s a misterious fact that even popular restaurants tend to have an awful wine list, either in-house selection or made for them by their wine supplier. Someone could explain me the 2006 Malatinszky Cabernet Sauvignon on the list in early 2008? People, taste it, or ask someone, outsource your choice!

Anyway, I believe that my dinner yesterday in Kiskakukk restaurant may require some explanation as well. Being a typical tourist trap (fake-hungarian cuisine, terrible service, fake-nostalgic interior, wines…) it should not attract me normally, but my foreign guest insisted in wanting to eat Hungarian “disznótoros” (mostly sausage, black-pudding and even more exotic parts of pork) I had no other choice than (since I don’t know these restaurants) I had to make an extremely quick internet research.

We finished 2 bottles of wine during the evening, both sold to us at HUF 4 000 (EUR 16). The first choice was a light Kékfrankos (better known as Blaufrankisch in the rest of the world).

The review – Szt. Gaál Kékfrankos 2005

Intense, deep fresh raspberry/cherry colour. So far so good.

The smell translates into similar taste with a slightly different tone. Excellent transition, smell and taste walk hand in hand. The fruityness disappears relatively quickly and the finish is smooth, no sign of tannin, alcohol burning or too much acid. Nice finish. It’s an overall charming, nice wine. EUR 9 is a fair value for it.

Score: 6

Price: EUR 9 (store price, fair value)

The Review – Malatinszky Cabernet Sauvigning 2006, Barrique (Villány)

Our second selection (we must drink a Hungarian Cabernet Sauvignon, I am told by my guest) is my big mistake. Or partly, because this wine takes me back to the 90s, when the quality and trendyness of the CS in Villány and elswhere were measured by the level of tannin in the bottle. But this much tannin cannot be extracted deom the barrel nor from the vine. It’s harsh, oily texture is in huge contrast with the Szt. Gaál Kékfrankos. I know it’s a young wine, still, after massacring a significant amount of gustatory cells in our tongue, we decide to give it some time in the decanter (we had to ask for it in the restaurant, of course). It did not help. After an hour, it’s smell (fruity also, but not so intense and elegant as in the Kékfrankos) got better, but in taste the tannin is still so dominant I can’t think of anything else, scratching the middle, upper and back part of my mouth, whilst the sweetness in the forefront of our tongue is living its own life. Hugely disappointing from Malatinszky, who’s already shown lot better than this CS before. I’m getting suspicious though, I just read Malatinszky’s rate of the year 2006 (his highest score).

I wish I never got back so distant in time. At least I’m happy to be back today, and I’m leaving soon for the Etyek Pincefesztivál, one of the biggest wine events in Hungary.

Score: 3+

Price: EUR 9 (overrated)

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