News for the ‘Oremus’ Category

Oremus – Szamorodni, 2007 (sweet)

Yes, it's darker than it appears here.

Oremus has been one of my favourite Tokaj wineries not just because Oremus produced some of the best sweet and dry wines Tokaj has ever seen in absolute terms but they usually come up with some very affordable wines too representing excellent value for the money. That’s why I wasn’t repelled by the HUF 2000 price tag when I saw this young Szamorodni and I didn’t hesitate (and neither should you).

Although technically different, Szamorodni are as close as one can get to an Aszú without actually making an Aszú. In terms of complexity, sweetness and balance, well made Szamorodni can be a very good introduction to sweet Tokaj wines.

Oremus – Szamorodni, 2007

Bright, clean, medium-deep golden yellow. Elegantly styled bouquet of lemon zest and ripe tangerine. It also displays dried apricot , butter and a touch of fine tea aroma. On the palate it’s creamy, smooth and lightly rich in fruity flavours of apricot, lemon zest with a long lemon zest and later peach core bitterness finish.

Somehow Szamorodni are always recommended as an appetizer. This Szamorodni is more complex and balanced than many mid-level 3 Puttonyos Aszú and it makes quite a dessert.

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Posted: January 8th, 2011
Categories: Oremus
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A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total

What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.

One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.

Tasting Scores 2008

Vylyan

Pinot Noir

2003

5+/6-

(in Q2 2008)

Gál Tibor

Cabernet Franc

2001

4

(in Q2 2008)

Tokaj Hétszőlő

Furmint

2006

5+/6-

(in Q2 2008)

Szecskő Tamás

Cuvée

2005

6

(in Q2 2008)

Gróf Buttler

Portugieser

2006

7+

(in Q2 2008)

Gróf Buttler

Kadarka

2006

3+

(in Q2 2008)

Mayer

Kopár Cuvée

2004

3+

(in Q2 2008)

Szt. Gaál

Kékfrankos

2005

6-/6

(in Q2 2008)

Malatinszky

Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique

2006

3+

OR

(in Q2 2008)

Chateau Dereszla

Dorombor

2006

6+/7-

BB

(in Q2 2008)

Tokaj Hétszőlő

Kövérszőlő

2006

6+/7-

(in Q2 2008)

Bezerics-Németh

Chardonnay Barrique

2006

3-

OR

(in Q2 2008)

Vylyan

Montenuovo Cuvée

2006

6-

(in Q2 2008)

Cramele Halewood

Sauvignon Blanc

2006

5+

FV

(in Q2 2008)

Chateau Dereszla

Sauvignon Blanc

2007

6+

BB

(in Q2 2008)

Vylyan

Villányi Rizling

2006

3

OR

(in Q2 2008)

Dereszla

Dry

2006

5, 5+

FV

(in Q2 2008)

Oremus

Mandolás Furmint

2003

7, 7+

FV, BB

(in Q2 2008)

Szabó Zoltán

Sauvignon Blanc

6+, 7-

BB

(in Q3 2008)

Ebner

Chardonnay

2006

3+

(in Q3 2008)

Ebner

Portugieser

2007

3+

(in Q3 2008)

Bock

Merlot

2002

5+

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Pontica

Móri Ezerjó

2006

7-

FV/BB

(in Q3 2008)

Degenfeld

Muscat Lunel

2007

4

(in Q3 2008)

Leo

Riesling

2006

3+

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Hilltop

Chardonnay

2006

3

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Heimann

Merlot

2006

5, 5+

FV

(in Q3 2008)

Heimann

Kerkaborum

2006

6, 6+

BB

(in Q3 2008)

Bussay

Esküvé

2006

5

FV

(in Q3 2008)

Ch. Megyer

Chardonnay

2005

6, 6+

BB

(in Q3 2008)

Dereszla

Furmint Szegi

2006

5+

(in Q3 2008)

Heumann

Kékrankos Barrique

2006

6

FV (only just)

(in Q3 2008)

Toth István

Bikavér Válogatás

2002

6+/7-

(in Q3 2008)

Jamek

Riesling Jochinger

2007

5, 5+

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Domane Wachau

Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel

2005

6, 6+

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Eurobor

Tűzkő Szelekcio

2006

5+, 6-

FV

(in Q3 2008)

Tokaj Hétszőlő

Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos

2001

8-

FV

(in Q3 2008)

Gere Attila

Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique

2000

4, 5-

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Gere Attila

Kopár Cuvée

2000

7+, 8-

(in Q3 2008)

Velezvin

Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée

4-

(in Q3 2008)

Pannonhalmi Apátsági

Rajnai Rizling

2007

4

OR

(in Q3 2008)

Légli Ottó

Olasrizling

3-

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Eurobor

Tűzkő Domb Cuvée

2005

5

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Légli

Sauvignon Blanc

2007

5+/6-

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Eurobor

Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc

2007

4/4-

FV

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Kadarka

2007

4

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció

2007

4-

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Olaszrizling

2007

4-

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Rosé

2007

5-/5

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Kadarka

2007

4+

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Pinot Noir

2007

5

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Bikavér

2005

4

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Kékfrankos

2006

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Kékfrankos Szelekció

2004

5/6-

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Optimus

2006

6/6-

(in Q4 2008)

Bodri

Merlot

2004

6

(in Q4 2008)

Ráspi

Sauvignon Blanc

2007

7

BB

(in Q4 2008)

Monarchia

Chardonnay (Battonage)

2006

7-/7

BB

(in Q4 2008)

Eurobor

Renana

2007

3+

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Eszterbauer

Nagyapám

2006

3+

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Gróf Buttler

Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő

2003

6/6+ (6+/7-)

(in Q4 2008)

Tamás Pince

Oriolus Cuvée

2004

5+/6

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Gróf Buttler

Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500

2005

6-7

(in Q4 2008)

Takler

Cuvée Maffiózó

2000

5+/6- (6+)

(in Q4 2008)

Ráspi

Mágus Cuvée

2006

6

FV

(in Q4 2008)

Eszterbauer

Merterünk Cuvée

2006

5

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Ráspi

Leányka

2007

3+ (but interesting)

(in Q4 2008)

Ráspi

Rosé Cuvé

2007

4

(in Q4 2008)

Monarchia

Grüner Veltliner

2006

3+

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Csányi Pincészet

Teleki cabernet Sauvignon

2006

4-

FV

(in Q4 2008)

Konyári

Loliense

2006

6-

OR

(in Q4 2008)

Wine Festival

Tasting Scores

Móri Bornapok 2008

On-site tasting notes.

Miklóscsabi

Utazótáska

2007

3+/4-

Bozóky

Leányka

2007

3+/4-

Bozóky

Cuvée

2007

4-

Bozóky

Ezerjó

2006

4

Miklóscsabi

Haramia Cuvée

2007

5

Maurus

Leányka

2007

4

Maurus

Sauvignon Blanc

2007

4+/5

Maurus

Rajnai Rizling

2007

5+/6-

Maurus

Eezrjó

2007

6/6-

Maurus

Chardonnay

2007

6


VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008

On-site tasting notes.

Ludányi

Elizabeth Cuvée

2007

4-

Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine.

Degenfeld

Furmint

2006

3+

Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.

Lesence

Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)

2007

6- (or 6)

Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light.

Top Wine

Tornai

Grófi Hárslevelű

2006

6, 6+

Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow.

This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.

Dereszla

Dorombor

2007

6+, 7-

80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said

Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.

Top Wine

Orsolya

Pnot Noir

2006

5/5-

Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.

Scheller

Áldozói Chardonnay

2003

7-

Pontica

(Móri) Ezerjó

2006

4+

It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there.

I’m curious about their new works.

Kikelet

Furmint (Tokaj)

2006

Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.

Kikelet

Hárslevelű

2006

5+, (6-?)

Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.

Orsolya

Hermány Leányka

2006

6

Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.

Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008

On-site tasting notes.

Laposa

Olaszrizling

2005

5+

Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.

Fair value

Kreinbacher

Olaszrizling

2005

4

Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.

Overrated

Györgykovács

Olaszrizling

2006

6

Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.

Fair value, almost best buy

Tornai

Olaszrizling Selection

2006

6-, 6

Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.

Fair value, almost best buy

Laposa

Bazaltbor, juhfark

2006

5+

Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!

Tornai

Juhfark selection

2006

7

Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.

Györgykovács

Furmint

2006

5-

Apple.

Györgykovács

Tramini

2006

6

Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.

Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)

Hárslevelű

2006

3+

Forgettable.

Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)

Furmint

2006

Kaló Imre

Leányka

2001

Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!

Györgykovács

Hárslevelű

4

Average.

Tornai

Olaszrizling

4-

Sparkling. Cheap.

A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.

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The Mandolás school of Furmint

I’ve been preparing to write about this wine until many things I wanted to write are now out of date. But please continue reading, having in mind that these are my thoughts today (yesterday, actually).

I must admit that I’m relatively new to Tokaj wines. At the heights of my snobbery, drinking sweet wines was out of question. This only started changing 3 years ago under heavy influence of a local winemaker. Now I can only laugh at myself, how pathetic it was not being able to find the place of Tokaj wines in wine drinking. Anyway, my attention towards Tokaj started few years after Tokaj producers realised the potential in Furmint and Hárslevelű. Even today, only a handful of them are taking the dry Tokaji seriously. Most of them still think of it as a side-effect of variable climate: botritis-based noble rotting does not happen every year, at least not with the required intensity. And the result is either late harvest wines (which do not sell in large quantities – although it should, but this will be the subject of another post yet to come) or dry Furmint. Traditionally, these were mostly sold as bulk-wines but fortunately some quality winemakers started exploring the terroir in these wines. And the grapes appreciated their efforts, resulting in exceptional dry furmints in 2000 repeating it in almost every year. Of course, its quality still varied each year, so the better the conditions were, more Aszú were produced and less dry Furmint. In spite of this, you can still buy from the exceptional Oremus Mandolás Furmint 2003 and I celebrated this so much I bought several bottles from that year’s harvest.

I must admit I like Furmint a bit more than Hárslevelű, which tend to be more spicy.

The review

Now let’s get to the wine.

Mandolás Furmint 2003

First of all, the nose is still at its best: very intense, a mixture of honey, cinnamon and lemon raspings. Beautiful, very dense. Unlike the more elegant Hétszőlő (Hétszőlő represents to me a whole other school of Furmint making), Mandolás is (although heavier on the nose and on the palate) more playful, sunny. Its maker’s objective was to impress you immediately when you sniff it. Good job, well done. Well balanced in on the nose, a whirlpool of sweetness and a bitter undertone. When you taste it, the whirlpool takes to the rocky bottom: it’s a mixture of minerals and pear, or rather quiche. Yes, because almond is also present with a mouth-filling sensation. Then suddenly, earlier than just a few months ago, its age takes over the taste and turns it into a tart, but still tasty, long finish. It recalls the memories of multi-colored fall leafs in its taste. And nice touch of mineral sensation remains.

This wine is now on sale with a discount, at around HUF 2 100 which still qualifies it for a best buy but only just, and not for long. So go and get one and drink it immediately.

Score: 6+ (it used to be a 7/7+ not so long ago)

Price: HUF 2 100 (EUR8)

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Posted: May 23rd, 2008
Categories: 6 points, 7 points, Best price, Oremus, Tokaj, Wine reviews
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An understated furmint

Furmint’s been emerging as a standalone dry wine recently from the shadows of the Aszú, following some really exceptional late harvest furmints (whose quality sometimes exceeds some mid-range Aszús). Hétszőlő’s been quite modest about their furmint and their shyness is a bit of a mystery. The 2004 was average, the 2005 was really not so bad.

I got some Hétszőlő Furmint 2006 few weeks after getting into bottles, long before being put on general sale and it was very promising even for a very young wine. Few months after it’s more developed, almost perfectly balanced. It’s traditionally bright coloured at Hétszőlő due to the soil (loess and clay on a base of vulcanic rocks) and the process of fermentation and maturing. It’s the exact opposite of the Mandolás Furmint from Oremus. Mandolás will be covered very soon, I still have a few bottles from the legendary 2003.

Hétszőlő is one of the most honest wineries in Tokaj and in the whole country. In poor years they produce average quality furmints and late harvests, but above the average of the competition. In better years, and when conditions are ideal for botritis rotting, they produce excellent Aszú. Their Kövérszőlő is one of the most enjoyable items in its category. Tibor Kovács is probably the most experimental wine maker in Tokaj. For him, terroir is more important than regulation, but we’ll talk about this later when we will be reviewing Aszú. And he’s an honest man too. He once told me that he believes that 80-90% depends on the grape, 10-20% (maximum) should depend on the winemaker. For sure, Hétszőlő owns some of the best slopes in Tokaj.

So let’s get to the note now.

(more…)

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