I say keep saving
Red wines under HUF2000 is a dangerous territory, but also an inevitable one. Here’s two of it, one is a finding from Budapest’s misterious stock (50% off from retail price) of Orbán square’s grocery store and the other one, well, I have no idea. I used to drink Takler wines a lot. I don’t miss those times, and I knew this before I opened the bottle. With Tóth István, you never know.
Takler – Merlot, 2008
Lively medium-deep cherry hue, just lovely. Fresh fruity bouquet with mulberry and black-currant. On the palate fresh but too thin and tannic with hints of sloe and black-currant with an appalling bitter undertone.
Tóth István – Merlot, 2004
Blurred ruby with a brownish rim. Lovely nose with, again, black-currant and mulberry, intense and jammy, later with a cigarette smoke accent. Feels much younger than it is with it’s harsh acidity. It’s loosiness won’t get any better after 80 minutes in spite of some tasty strawberry jam coming through.
Both wines had attractive bouquet but both missed the target on the palate, the Takler by miles and the Tóth István only just. I paid HUF 900 for it so i didn’t mind.
A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total
What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.
One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.
Tasting Scores 2008
|
Vylyan |
Pinot Noir |
2003 |
5+/6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gál Tibor |
Cabernet Franc |
2001 |
4 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Furmint |
2006 |
5+/6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szecskő Tamás |
Cuvée |
2005 |
6 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Portugieser |
2006 |
7+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Kadarka |
2006 |
3+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Mayer |
Kopár Cuvée |
2004 |
3+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szt. Gaál |
Kékfrankos |
2005 |
6-/6 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Malatinszky |
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Chateau Dereszla |
Dorombor |
2006 |
6+/7- |
BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Kövérszőlő |
2006 |
6+/7- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Bezerics-Németh |
Chardonnay Barrique |
2006 |
3- |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Vylyan |
Montenuovo Cuvée |
2006 |
6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Cramele Halewood |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2006 |
5+ |
FV |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Chateau Dereszla |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
6+ |
BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Vylyan |
Villányi Rizling |
2006 |
3 |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Dereszla |
Dry |
2006 |
5, 5+ |
FV |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Oremus |
Mandolás Furmint |
2003 |
7, 7+ |
FV, BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szabó Zoltán |
Sauvignon Blanc |
|
6+, 7- |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ebner |
Chardonnay |
2006 |
3+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ebner |
Portugieser |
2007 |
3+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Bock |
Merlot |
2002 |
5+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pontica |
Móri Ezerjó |
2006 |
7- |
FV/BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Degenfeld |
Muscat Lunel |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Leo |
Riesling |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Hilltop |
Chardonnay |
2006 |
3 |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heimann |
Merlot |
2006 |
5, 5+ |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heimann |
Kerkaborum |
2006 |
6, 6+ |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Bussay |
Esküvé |
2006 |
5 |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ch. Megyer |
Chardonnay |
2005 |
6, 6+ |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Dereszla |
Furmint Szegi |
2006 |
5+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heumann |
Kékrankos Barrique |
2006 |
6 |
FV (only just) |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Toth István |
Bikavér Válogatás |
2002 |
6+/7- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Jamek |
Riesling Jochinger |
2007 |
5, 5+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Domane Wachau |
Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel |
2005 |
6, 6+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Szelekcio |
2006 |
5+, 6- |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos |
2001 |
8- |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila |
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique |
2000 |
4, 5- |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila |
Kopár Cuvée |
2000 |
7+, 8- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Velezvin |
Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée |
|
4- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pannonhalmi Apátsági |
Rajnai Rizling |
2007 |
4 |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Légli Ottó |
Olasrizling |
|
3- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Domb Cuvée |
2005 |
5 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Légli |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
5+/6- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
4/4- |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kadarka |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció |
2007 |
4- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Olaszrizling |
2007 |
4- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Rosé |
2007 |
5-/5 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kadarka |
2007 |
4+ |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Pinot Noir |
2007 |
5 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Bikavér |
2005 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kékfrankos |
2006 |
|
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kékfrankos Szelekció |
2004 |
5/6- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Optimus |
2006 |
6/6- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Merlot |
2004 |
6 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
7 |
BB |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Monarchia |
Chardonnay (Battonage) |
2006 |
7-/7 |
BB |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Renana |
2007 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eszterbauer |
Nagyapám |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő |
2003 |
6/6+ (6+/7-) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Tamás Pince |
Oriolus Cuvée |
2004 |
5+/6 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500 |
2005 |
6-7 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Takler |
Cuvée Maffiózó |
2000 |
5+/6- (6+) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Mágus Cuvée |
2006 |
6 |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eszterbauer |
Merterünk Cuvée |
2006 |
5 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Leányka |
2007 |
3+ (but interesting) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Rosé Cuvé |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Monarchia |
Grüner Veltliner |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Csányi Pincészet |
Teleki cabernet Sauvignon |
2006 |
4- |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Konyári |
Loliense |
2006 |
6- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
Wine Festival
Tasting Scores
|
Móri Bornapok 2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Miklóscsabi |
Utazótáska |
2007 |
3+/4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Leányka |
2007 |
3+/4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Cuvée |
2007 |
4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Ezerjó |
2006 |
4 |
|
|
|
Miklóscsabi |
Haramia Cuvée |
2007 |
5 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Leányka |
2007 |
4 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
4+/5 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Rajnai Rizling |
2007 |
5+/6- |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Eezrjó |
2007 |
6/6- |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Chardonnay |
2007 |
6 |
|
|
|
VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Ludányi |
Elizabeth Cuvée |
2007 |
4- |
Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine. |
|
|
Degenfeld |
Furmint |
2006 |
3+ |
Furmint smell, bitterness, wood. |
|
|
Lesence |
Riesling (Rajnai Rizling) |
2007 |
6- (or 6) |
Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light. |
Top Wine |
|
Tornai |
Grófi Hárslevelű |
2006 |
6, 6+ |
Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow. This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it. |
|
|
Dereszla |
Dorombor |
2007 |
6+, 7- |
80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last. |
Top Wine |
|
Orsolya |
Pnot Noir |
2006 |
5/5- |
Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill. |
|
|
Scheller |
Áldozói Chardonnay |
2003 |
7- |
|
|
|
Pontica |
(Móri) Ezerjó |
2006 |
4+ |
It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there. I’m curious about their new works. |
|
|
Kikelet |
Furmint (Tokaj) |
2006 |
|
Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700. |
|
|
Kikelet |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
5+, (6-?) |
Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice. |
|
|
Orsolya |
Hermány Leányka |
2006 |
6 |
Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine. |
|
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Laposa |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
5+ |
Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine. |
Fair value |
|
Kreinbacher |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
4 |
Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier. |
Overrated |
|
Györgykovács |
Olaszrizling |
2006 |
6 |
Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling Selection |
2006 |
6-, 6 |
Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Laposa |
Bazaltbor, juhfark |
2006 |
5+ |
Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%! |
|
|
Tornai |
Juhfark selection |
2006 |
7 |
Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Furmint |
2006 |
5- |
Apple. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Tramini |
2006 |
6 |
Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
3+ |
Forgettable. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Furmint |
2006 |
|
|
|
|
Kaló Imre |
Leányka |
2001 |
|
Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%! |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Hárslevelű |
|
4 |
Average. |
|
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling |
|
4- |
Sparkling. Cheap. |
|
|
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities. |
|||||
Red heights
I’ve recently testified a revolt by a regular drinker (and apparently self-appointed free-lance vine adviser) for Bukolyi never accepting anyone’s opinion on how to make even better wines and what a rubbish method was to classify his wines according to the heights where the vines are located. Indeed, this approach might sound weird to many (the higher the vines come from, the better the quality is supposed to be, or at least this is what price tags suggest) and I cannot judge the character of Bukolyi myself. The simple fact is that his wines never disappointed me and for a rare fortunate coincidence I never had to care about the price tag so far. I hope this wouldn’t incline my judgment today. Anyway, I put this Syrah beside a cuvée from Szekszárd which I sampled later the same day.
The reviews
Gróf Buttler – Egri Syrah, 2005, Nagy-Eged, 400-500
Beautiful, lively, dark cherry color with purplish reflections. Absolutely stunning and with a beautiful, elegant fresh move.
The nose is spicy, dominantly pepper with a woody underpinning. Lot of pepper and minerality.
On the palate at start a velvety, almost oily texture is supporting the blackberry fruit aromas – I must emphasize the fact that no jam, no overly ripe fruit, but perfectly ripe, fresh blackberry fruit we have here. Later cherry, a bit of chocolate and a phosphorus undertone. The tannins are there in a powder-like , velvety form. With time and for a period, an unlit candle-like element takes over the palate. These strange, but pleasant elements are supported by nice, round acidity. Good structure. The mineral character is there from the nose to the long finish on the palate, along with a cherry seed bitterness.
Score: 6-7 points (I gave it a 6 then, now I’m inclining towards a 7-)
Takler – Cuvée Maffiózó, 2000
The color is dark, brownish ruby as far as I can tell (yeah, the local conditions weren’t perfect for that). Very intense berry fruit aromas mingled with Asian spices.
On the palate this intensity couldn’t be sustained. Even worse than that, there’s no acidity to support the big, although flat body. This is a very dry wine. Only the palate dried tobacco and a bitter finish.
Score: 5+, 6- (I might be a little bit austere here though)
