I always thought that the “Hungarian Beaujolais” or new wine as we call them here, are a simple financing tool aiming to improve the duration of assets in the balance sheet or even worse, clear some bad items off the balance sheet by making some magical blend which then will be finding its way to the market through the goose plates around St. Martin’s day. Those crossing my way never been quite convincing but I was persuaded by a merchant lately to try Bodri Gúnár 2008 because it’s a “must-have piece of new wine” (well, not so new in February, I thought). So here’s my first new wine review ever on budapestdailyreview.com. And this is my first post about a 2008 too.
The review
Appealing, very lively, medium deep ruby color with intense cherry and purplish reflections. And a nice move too.
The nose is incredibly rich in cherry aroma. Supernatural, or unnatural? I spent the next hour asking this question to myself.
The palate is also cherry fruity but above all it’s very acidic more than anything else. Brutally. The tannins are young but OK, but boy, will the acidity in this wine rip all the plaques off one’s teeth just like that! Very young, fruity, upper medium-bodied wine with an explosion of cherry aromas everywhere mingled in acid lasting long, and than a bit even longer.
I wonder if this wine would get, or could get any better but it doesn’t have to. It’s a nice experience, although the wine clearly lucks any deepness or complexity, or finess. ’cause you know what? I’m convinced: we should have such a wine once a year (or twice)! And goes well with a duck breast too. Plus, it’s not exactly a bargain but it’s fairly priced.
Score: 4/5-
Price: HUF 1 800
What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.
One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.
Tasting Scores 2008
|
Vylyan
|
Pinot Noir
|
2003
|
5+/6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gál Tibor
|
Cabernet Franc
|
2001
|
4
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
5+/6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szecskő Tamás
|
Cuvée
|
2005
|
6
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Portugieser
|
2006
|
7+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Kadarka
|
2006
|
3+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Mayer
|
Kopár Cuvée
|
2004
|
3+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szt. Gaál
|
Kékfrankos
|
2005
|
6-/6
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Malatinszky
|
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Chateau Dereszla
|
Dorombor
|
2006
|
6+/7-
|
BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Kövérszőlő
|
2006
|
6+/7-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Bezerics-Németh
|
Chardonnay Barrique
|
2006
|
3-
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Vylyan
|
Montenuovo Cuvée
|
2006
|
6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Cramele Halewood
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2006
|
5+
|
FV
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Chateau Dereszla
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
6+
|
BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Vylyan
|
Villányi Rizling
|
2006
|
3
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Dereszla
|
Dry
|
2006
|
5, 5+
|
FV
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Oremus
|
Mandolás Furmint
|
2003
|
7, 7+
|
FV, BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szabó Zoltán
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
|
6+, 7-
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ebner
|
Chardonnay
|
2006
|
3+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ebner
|
Portugieser
|
2007
|
3+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Bock
|
Merlot
|
2002
|
5+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Pontica
|
Móri Ezerjó
|
2006
|
7-
|
FV/BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Degenfeld
|
Muscat Lunel
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Leo
|
Riesling
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Hilltop
|
Chardonnay
|
2006
|
3
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heimann
|
Merlot
|
2006
|
5, 5+
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heimann
|
Kerkaborum
|
2006
|
6, 6+
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Bussay
|
Esküvé
|
2006
|
5
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ch. Megyer
|
Chardonnay
|
2005
|
6, 6+
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Dereszla
|
Furmint Szegi
|
2006
|
5+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heumann
|
Kékrankos Barrique
|
2006
|
6
|
FV (only just)
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Toth István
|
Bikavér Válogatás
|
2002
|
6+/7-
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Jamek
|
Riesling Jochinger
|
2007
|
5, 5+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Domane Wachau
|
Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel
|
2005
|
6, 6+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Szelekcio
|
2006
|
5+, 6-
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos
|
2001
|
8-
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila
|
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique
|
2000
|
4, 5-
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila
|
Kopár Cuvée
|
2000
|
7+, 8-
|
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Velezvin
|
Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée
|
|
4-
|
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pannonhalmi Apátsági
|
Rajnai Rizling
|
2007
|
4
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Légli Ottó
|
Olasrizling
|
|
3-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Domb Cuvée
|
2005
|
5
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Légli
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
5+/6-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
4/4-
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kadarka
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Olaszrizling
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Rosé
|
2007
|
5-/5
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kadarka
|
2007
|
4+
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Pinot Noir
|
2007
|
5
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Bikavér
|
2005
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kékfrankos
|
2006
|
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kékfrankos Szelekció
|
2004
|
5/6-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Optimus
|
2006
|
6/6-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Merlot
|
2004
|
6
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
7
|
BB
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Monarchia
|
Chardonnay (Battonage)
|
2006
|
7-/7
|
BB
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Renana
|
2007
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eszterbauer
|
Nagyapám
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő
|
2003
|
6/6+ (6+/7-)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Tamás Pince
|
Oriolus Cuvée
|
2004
|
5+/6
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500
|
2005
|
6-7
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Takler
|
Cuvée Maffiózó
|
2000
|
5+/6- (6+)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Mágus Cuvée
|
2006
|
6
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eszterbauer
|
Merterünk Cuvée
|
2006
|
5
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
3+ (but interesting)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Rosé Cuvé
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Monarchia
|
Grüner Veltliner
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Csányi Pincészet
|
Teleki cabernet Sauvignon
|
2006
|
4-
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Konyári
|
Loliense
|
2006
|
6-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
Wine Festival
Tasting Scores
|
Móri Bornapok 2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Miklóscsabi
|
Utazótáska
|
2007
|
3+/4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
3+/4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Cuvée
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Ezerjó
|
2006
|
4
|
|
|
|
Miklóscsabi
|
Haramia Cuvée
|
2007
|
5
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
4
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
4+/5
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Rajnai Rizling
|
2007
|
5+/6-
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Eezrjó
|
2007
|
6/6-
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Chardonnay
|
2007
|
6
|
|
|
|
VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Ludányi
|
Elizabeth Cuvée
|
2007
|
4-
|
Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine.
|
|
|
Degenfeld
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
3+
|
Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
|
|
|
Lesence
|
Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)
|
2007
|
6- (or 6)
|
Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light.
|
Top Wine
|
|
Tornai
|
Grófi Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
6, 6+
|
Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow.
This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
|
|
|
Dereszla
|
Dorombor
|
2007
|
6+, 7-
|
80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said
Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.
|
Top Wine
|
|
Orsolya
|
Pnot Noir
|
2006
|
5/5-
|
Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
|
|
|
Scheller
|
Áldozói Chardonnay
|
2003
|
7-
|
|
|
|
Pontica
|
(Móri) Ezerjó
|
2006
|
4+
|
It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there.
I’m curious about their new works.
|
|
|
Kikelet
|
Furmint (Tokaj)
|
2006
|
|
Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
|
|
|
Kikelet
|
Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
5+, (6-?)
|
Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
|
|
|
Orsolya
|
Hermány Leányka
|
2006
|
6
|
Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.
|
|
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Laposa
|
Olaszrizling
|
2005
|
5+
|
Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.
|
Fair value
|
|
Kreinbacher
|
Olaszrizling
|
2005
|
4
|
Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.
|
Overrated
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Olaszrizling
|
2006
|
6
|
Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.
|
Fair value, almost best buy
|
|
Tornai
|
Olaszrizling Selection
|
2006
|
6-, 6
|
Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.
|
Fair value, almost best buy
|
|
Laposa
|
Bazaltbor, juhfark
|
2006
|
5+
|
Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!
|
|
|
Tornai
|
Juhfark selection
|
2006
|
7
|
Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
5-
|
Apple.
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Tramini
|
2006
|
6
|
Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.
|
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)
|
Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
3+
|
Forgettable.
|
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
|
|
|
|
Kaló Imre
|
Leányka
|
2001
|
|
Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Hárslevelű
|
|
4
|
Average.
|
|
|
Tornai
|
Olaszrizling
|
|
4-
|
Sparkling. Cheap.
|
|
|
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.
|
Posted: January 5th, 2009
Categories:
Bock,
Bodri,
Bozóky,
Bussay,
Chateau Megyer,
Csányi,
Degenfeld,
Dereszla,
Ebner,
Eszterbauer,
Eurobor,
Gere Attila,
Gróf Buttler,
Györgykovács,
Gál Tibor,
Heimann,
Heumann,
Hilltop,
Hétszőlő,
Kaló Imre,
Kikelet,
Konyári,
Kreinbacher,
Laposa,
Lesence,
Ludányi,
Légli Ottó,
Malatinszky,
Maurus,
Mayer,
Miklóscsabi,
Monarchia,
Oremus,
Orsolya,
Pannonhalmi,
Pontica,
Ráspi,
Scheller,
Szabó Zoltán,
Szecskő Tamás,
Szt. Gaál,
Takler,
Tamás Pince,
Tornai,
Tóth István,
Velezvin,
Vylyan,
Wine reviews
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Bezerics-Németh,
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Jamek,
Leo
Comments:
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Following the white wines I’m going to share with you know my notes from the on-site tasting at the Bodri Pincészet.
Bodri – Kadarka, 2007
Very nice fig color! Slightly darker than a typical Kadarka.
The pleasant nose carries notes of cherry and sour cherry.
On the palate the medium tannic acidity is a bit too much for the small body, especially that no fruits can be found there. It has an unpleasant sherry-like finish. I can’t read the rest of my notes, I’m very sorry.
Score: 4+ points
Bodri – Pinot Noir, 2007
A brownish fig color.
Car-leather nose with cognac accent, quite elegant.
On the palate lot of cherry and velvety tannins with a brandy/Port-wine-like underpinning. The 13,5% alcohol is fine here.
Score: 5
Bodri – Bikavér, 2005
50% Kékfrankos, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5-5% Zweigelt and Kadarka make this Bikavér quite confusing, with dark color but a lively move. It’s a bit woody with nice, although deft tannins not yet smooth and with chalky leather and red beet elements on the palate. With time, tobacco too. The wine could have more body.
Score: 4 points
Bodri – Kékfrankos, 2006
Phosphoric nose, woody on the palate.
Bodri, Kékfrankos Szelekcio, 2004
Brick color with ruby accent. More elegant on the nose and on the palate too with smooth, almost oily tannins. Intense cherry, berry fruit and peppermint nose and alcohol (14%), medium body.
Score: 5, 6- points
Bodri – Optimus, 2006
This cuvéé (20% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) has a less intense, less fruity, instead smoky nose with some tobacco, leather and chocolate. More elegant than the Kékfrankos Selection. This full-bodied wine has smoother tannins.
Score: 6, 6- points
Bodri – Merlot, 2004
Bodri did not make Merlot in 2005 but he’s still got bottles left from 2004.
Pleasant nose. Full-bodied wine but a bit woody on the palate. Burning alcohol, along with residual sugar.
Score: 6 points
Arriving late in the evening at the Bodri Pincészet I couldn’t visit the vineyards spread on 11 hectares around their cellar at Szekszárd-Faluhely (they have another 14 elsewhere) but from what I could see I’m suspecting that the valley must be beautiful in the daylight. Visitors can also appreciate the spacious cellar built recently using 100-years old bricks. And István Bodri is fun to listen to, but prepare to get an overflow of information very quickly. No bullshit though.
The Bodris are very proud of the technology they use and its proofs are everywhere. They’re producing more white wines than their fellow Szekszárd winemakers which I appreciated. They’re very well known locally but not so much elsewhere.
The reviews
We started with a white Kadarka from 2007. It couldn’t be more interesting.
It has medium-bright color between rose and onion peel. Quite unusual and nice.
The floral nose (acacia) makes is desirable too. Fresh, round acidity with some sour underpinning but it’s OK. Medium body, well balanced.
I like this experimental approach and this proves that Kadarka is suitable for this tentative. Well done.
Score: 4 points
The Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció (Selection) from 2007 has 13.7% alcohol. Szekszárd wines often have high alcohol but I don’t mind it when it comes with a nice body and a right level of acidity.
It’s almost totally translucent. The nose is wet grass, gooseberry and a good deal of bad egg. According to the winemaker, it was aged in new oak but that’s not obvious. It has a small body and long, a bit bitter finish with pineapple, pear and grapefruit elements.
Score: 4-
Bodri Olaszrizling 2007 has a very pale bright color and a not very intense palate despite a larger body than the previous ones. It could have more acidity.
Score: 4-
Rozi, the rosé has one of the best nose I had a chance to find in a Hungarian rosé, if not the best. Intense, but still light-weight strawberry and strawberry jam, elegant, perfume-y. And it’s definitely Kékfrankos. On the palate it’s more stewed cherry-like.
I forgot to give it a score then, now I would say at least 5-, 5.
