09 Feb

St. Martin’s goose from Szekszárd

Author: admin | Category: 4 points, 5 points, Bodri, Szekszárd, Wine reviews

I always thought that the “Hungarian Beaujolais” or new wine as we call them here, are a simple financing tool aiming to improve the duration of assets in the balance sheet or even worse, clear some bad items off the balance sheet by making some magical blend which then will be finding its way to the market through the goose plates around St. Martin’s day. Those crossing my way never been quite convincing but I was persuaded by a merchant lately to try Bodri Gúnár 2008 because it’s a “must-have piece of new wine” (well, not so new in February, I thought). So here’s my first new wine review ever on budapestdailyreview.com. And this is my first post about a 2008 too.

The review

Appealing, very lively, medium deep ruby color with intense cherry and purplish reflections. And a nice move too.

The nose is incredibly rich in cherry aroma. Supernatural, or unnatural? I spent the next hour asking this question to myself.

The palate is also cherry fruity but above all it’s very acidic more than anything else. Brutally. The tannins are young but OK, but boy, will the acidity in this wine rip all the plaques off one’s teeth just like that! Very young, fruity, upper medium-bodied wine with an explosion of cherry aromas everywhere mingled in acid lasting long, and than a bit even longer.

I wonder if this wine would get, or could get any better but it doesn’t have to. It’s a nice experience, although the wine clearly lucks any deepness or complexity, or finess. ’cause you know what? I’m convinced: we should have such a wine once a year (or twice)! And goes well with a duck breast too. Plus, it’s not exactly a bargain but it’s fairly priced.

Score: 4/5-

Price: HUF 1 800

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05 Jan

A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total

Author: admin | Category: Bock, Bodri, Bozóky, Bussay, Chateau Megyer, Csányi, Degenfeld, Dereszla, Ebner, Eszterbauer, Eurobor, Gere Attila, Gróf Buttler, Györgykovács, Gál Tibor, Heimann, Heumann, Hilltop, Hollóvár, Hétszőlő, Kaló Imre, Kikelet, Konyári, Kreinbacher, Laposa, Lesence, Ludányi, Légli Ottó, Malatinszky, Maurus, Mayer, Miklóscsabi, Monarchia, Oremus, Orsolya, Pannonhalmi, Pontica, Ráspi, Scheller, Szabó Zoltán, Szecskő Tamás, Szt. Gaál, Takler, Tamás Pince, Tornai, Tóth István, Velezvin, Vylyan, Wine reviews

What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.

One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.

Tasting Scores 2008

Vylyan	Pinot Noir	2003	5+/6-		(in Q2 2008)
Gál Tibor	Cabernet Franc	2001	4		(in Q2 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Furmint	2006	5+/6-		(in Q2 2008)
Szecskő Tamás	Cuvée	2005	6		(in Q2 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Portugieser	2006	7+		(in Q2 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Kadarka	2006	3+		(in Q2 2008)
Mayer	Kopár Cuvée	2004	3+		(in Q2 2008)
Szt. Gaál	Kékfrankos	2005	6-/6		(in Q2 2008)
Malatinszky	Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique	2006	3+	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Chateau Dereszla	Dorombor	2006	6+/7-	BB	(in Q2 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Kövérszőlő	2006	6+/7-		(in Q2 2008)
Bezerics-Németh	Chardonnay Barrique	2006	3-	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Vylyan	Montenuovo Cuvée	2006	6-		(in Q2 2008)
Cramele Halewood	Sauvignon Blanc	2006	5+	FV	(in Q2 2008)
Chateau Dereszla	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	6+	BB	(in Q2 2008)
Vylyan	Villányi Rizling	2006	3	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Dereszla	Dry	2006	5, 5+	FV	(in Q2 2008)
Oremus	Mandolás Furmint	2003	7, 7+	FV, BB	(in Q2 2008)
Szabó Zoltán	Sauvignon Blanc		6+, 7-	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Ebner	Chardonnay	2006	3+		(in Q3 2008)
Ebner	Portugieser	2007	3+		(in Q3 2008)
Bock	Merlot	2002	5+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Pontica	Móri Ezerjó	2006	7-	FV/BB	(in Q3 2008)
Degenfeld	Muscat Lunel	2007	4		(in Q3 2008)
Leo	Riesling	2006	3+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Hilltop	Chardonnay	2006	3	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Heimann	Merlot	2006	5, 5+	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Heimann	Kerkaborum	2006	6, 6+	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Bussay	Esküvé	2006	5	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Ch. Megyer	Chardonnay	2005	6, 6+	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Dereszla	Furmint Szegi	2006	5+		(in Q3 2008)
Heumann	Kékrankos Barrique	2006	6	FV (only just)	(in Q3 2008)
Toth István	Bikavér Válogatás	2002	6+/7-		(in Q3 2008)
Jamek	Riesling Jochinger	2007	5, 5+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Domane Wachau	Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel	2005	6, 6+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Szelekcio	2006	5+, 6-	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos	2001	8-	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Gere Attila	Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique	2000	4, 5-	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Gere Attila	Kopár Cuvée	2000	7+, 8-		(in Q3 2008)
Velezvin	Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée		4-		(in Q3 2008)
Pannonhalmi Apátsági	Rajnai Rizling	2007	4	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Légli Ottó	Olasrizling		3-	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Domb Cuvée	2005	5	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Légli	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	5+/6-	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc	2007	4/4-	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kadarka	2007	4		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció	2007	4-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Olaszrizling	2007	4-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Rosé	2007	5-/5		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kadarka	2007	4+		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Pinot Noir	2007	5		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Bikavér	2005	4		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kékfrankos	2006			(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kékfrankos Szelekció	2004	5/6-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Optimus	2006	6/6-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Merlot	2004	6		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	7	BB	(in Q4 2008)
Monarchia	Chardonnay (Battonage)	2006	7-/7	BB	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Renana	2007	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eszterbauer	Nagyapám	2006	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő	2003	6/6+ (6+/7-)		(in Q4 2008)
Tamás Pince	Oriolus Cuvée	2004	5+/6	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500	2005	6-7		(in Q4 2008)
Takler	Cuvée Maffiózó	2000	5+/6- (6+)		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Mágus Cuvée	2006	6	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Eszterbauer	Merterünk Cuvée	2006	5	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Leányka	2007	3+ (but interesting)		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Rosé Cuvé	2007	4		(in Q4 2008)
Monarchia	Grüner Veltliner	2006	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Csányi Pincészet	Teleki cabernet Sauvignon	2006	4-	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Konyári	Loliense	2006	6-	OR	(in Q4 2008)

Wine Festival

Tasting Scores

Móri Bornapok 2008
On-site tasting notes.
Miklóscsabi	Utazótáska	2007	3+/4-
Bozóky	Leányka	2007	3+/4-
Bozóky	Cuvée	2007	4-
Bozóky	Ezerjó	2006	4
Miklóscsabi	Haramia Cuvée	2007	5
Maurus	Leányka	2007	4
Maurus	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	4+/5
Maurus	Rajnai Rizling	2007	5+/6-
Maurus	Eezrjó	2007	6/6-
Maurus	Chardonnay	2007	6

VII. Pannon Bormustra - Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008
On-site tasting notes.
Ludányi	Elizabeth Cuvée	2007	4-	Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine.
Degenfeld	Furmint	2006	3+	Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
Lesence	Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)	2007	6- (or 6)	Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light.	Top Wine
Tornai	Grófi Hárslevelű	2006	6, 6+	Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow. This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just - not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
Dereszla	Dorombor	2007	6+, 7-	80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.	Top Wine
Orsolya	Pnot Noir	2006	5/5-	Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
Scheller	Áldozói Chardonnay	2003	7-
Pontica	(Móri) Ezerjó	2006	4+	It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there. I’m curious about their new works.
Kikelet	Furmint (Tokaj)	2006		Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
Kikelet	Hárslevelű	2006	5+, (6-?)	Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
Orsolya	Hermány Leányka	2006	6	Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
On-site tasting notes.
Laposa	Olaszrizling	2005	5+	Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.	Fair value
Kreinbacher	Olaszrizling	2005	4	Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.	Overrated
Györgykovács	Olaszrizling	2006	6	Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.	Fair value, almost best buy
Tornai	Olaszrizling Selection	2006	6-, 6	Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.	Fair value, almost best buy
Laposa	Bazaltbor, juhfark	2006	5+	Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!
Tornai	Juhfark selection	2006	7	Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.
Györgykovács	Furmint	2006	5-	Apple.
Györgykovács	Tramini	2006	6	Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)	Hárslevelű	2006	3+	Forgettable.
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)	Furmint	2006
Kaló Imre	Leányka	2001		Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!
Györgykovács	Hárslevelű		4	Average.
Tornai	Olaszrizling		4-	Sparkling. Cheap.
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.

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16 Oct

Bodri Reds

Author: admin | Category: 4 points, 5 points, 6 points, Bodri, Szekszárd, Wine reviews

Following the white wines I’m going to share with you know my notes from the on-site tasting at the Bodri Pincészet.

Bodri – Kadarka, 2007

Very nice fig color! Slightly darker than a typical Kadarka.

The pleasant nose carries notes of cherry and sour cherry.

On the palate the medium tannic acidity is a bit too much for the small body, especially that no fruits can be found there. It has an unpleasant sherry-like finish. I can’t read the rest of my notes, I’m very sorry.

Score: 4+ points

Bodri - Pinot Noir, 2007

A brownish fig color.

Car-leather nose with cognac accent, quite elegant.

On the palate lot of cherry and velvety tannins with a brandy/Port-wine-like underpinning. The 13,5% alcohol is fine here.

Score: 5

Bodri – Bikavér, 2005

50% Kékfrankos, 20% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5-5% Zweigelt and Kadarka make this Bikavér quite confusing, with dark color but a lively move. It’s a bit woody with nice, although deft tannins not yet smooth and with chalky leather and red beet elements on the palate. With time, tobacco too. The wine could have more body.

Score: 4 points

Bodri – Kékfrankos, 2006

Phosphoric nose, woody on the palate.

Bodri, Kékfrankos Szelekcio, 2004

Brick color with ruby accent. More elegant on the nose and on the palate too with smooth, almost oily tannins. Intense cherry, berry fruit and peppermint nose and alcohol (14%), medium body.

Score: 5, 6- points

Bodri – Optimus, 2006

This cuvéé (20% Cabernet Franc, 40% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon) has a less intense, less fruity, instead smoky nose with some tobacco, leather and chocolate. More elegant than the Kékfrankos Selection. This full-bodied wine has smoother tannins.

Score: 6, 6- points

Bodri – Merlot, 2004

Bodri did not make Merlot in 2005 but he’s still got bottles left from 2004.

Pleasant nose. Full-bodied wine but a bit woody on the palate. Burning alcohol, along with residual sugar.

Score: 6 points

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14 Oct

Bodri Whites

Author: admin | Category: Bodri, Szekszárd, Wine reviews, Winery reviews

Arriving late in the evening at the Bodri Pincészet I couldn’t visit the vineyards spread on 11 hectares around their cellar at Szekszárd-Faluhely (they have another 14 elsewhere) but from what I could see I’m suspecting that the valley must be beautiful in the daylight. Visitors can also appreciate the spacious cellar built recently using 100-years old bricks. And István Bodri is fun to listen to, but prepare to get an overflow of information very quickly. No bullshit though.

The Bodris are very proud of the technology they use and its proofs are everywhere. They’re producing more white wines than their fellow Szekszárd winemakers which I appreciated. They’re very well known locally but not so much elsewhere.

The reviews

We started with a white Kadarka from 2007. It couldn’t be more interesting.

Bodri Kadarka

It has medium-bright color between rose and onion peel. Quite unusual and nice.

The floral nose (acacia) makes is desirable too. Fresh, round acidity with some sour underpinning but it’s OK. Medium body, well balanced.

I like this experimental approach and this proves that Kadarka is suitable for this tentative. Well done.

Score: 4 points

The Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció (Selection) from 2007 has 13.7% alcohol. Szekszárd wines often have high alcohol but I don’t mind it when it comes with a nice body and a right level of acidity.

It’s almost totally translucent. The nose is wet grass, gooseberry and a good deal of bad egg. According to the winemaker, it was aged in new oak but that’s not obvious. It has a small body and long, a bit bitter finish with pineapple, pear and grapefruit elements.

Score: 4-

Bodri Olaszrizling 2007 has a very pale bright color and a not very intense palate despite a larger body than the previous ones. It could have more acidity.

Score: 4-

Rozi, the rosé has one of the best nose I had a chance to find in a Hungarian rosé, if not the best. Intense, but still light-weight strawberry and strawberry jam, elegant, perfume-y. And it’s definitely Kékfrankos. On the palate it’s more stewed cherry-like.

I forgot to give it a score then, now I would say at least 5-, 5.

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Budapest Daily Review

St. Martin’s goose from Szekszárd

A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total

Tasting Scores 2008

Wine Festival

Tasting Scores

Bodri Reds

Bodri Whites

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