Fresh from Laposa winery
Laposa winery made the news with their new award-winning facilities triggering debate over taste, building permits and politics. Although the involvement of local politics and non-refundable state capital inflow into a private winery is a controversial issue, it is also a very Hungarian one. In my defence I bought this bottle before I heard the news, besides Laposa used to make decent and affordable wines both in Somló and in the Badacsony area.
Laposa – Rizling “Friss”, 2009
Openly positioned as a “fröccs” wine it is perhaps a little bit odd to drink it in the middle of the February frost but I’m not bound by such clichés. Sometimes regrettably not, as this wine is really what they say about it: a pale lemon yellow acid fluid from the beginning to the finish, fresh but not crisp and very, very acidic. It is really dificult to appreciate it now and I’m not sure about its prospects for the summer either.
Laposa – Badacsonyi Rizling, 2008
Rizling in Hungary can be either Riesling, Olaszrizling, both or none. Laposa’s Badacsonyi Rizling is Olasz Rizling which I can only assume (but not to be absolutely sure) means Olaszrizling.
Pale golden yellow. The bouquet is lovely and rich. Minerally notes mingled with lime, lemon balm and other greenish notes, especially a lovage accent here. Fairly exciting, fresh, not too heavy, interesting. Similarly expressive palate which kicks off with brilliant, sharp acidity with lime juice aromas mingled with a drop of sweetness and a hint of boiled persley. Well balanced long finish with flavours of lemon balm and lime. The palate gets more and more salty.
Relatively coherent wine considering its complexity at it’s price.
Score: 5, 5+ points
Price: HUF 1760
Making sense of wine regions – Somló 2008 new wines vol. 1
It is widely believed that the Somló wines have a strong local character, the terroir providing foundation for it. Tasting some of the the most respected local winemakers’ wines side by side will give you another impression though. Others even question whether Somló, already the smallest of Hungary’s historical wine regions, can be regarded as one single region proposing that Somló mountain (a hill, actually) could be split into upper (more volcanic rocky ascent) and lower (more flat, with sometimes powdery soil) regions of very different local climate, not to mention that only the south-western slopes with bigger solar exposure should be really considered as part of the Somló region.
With two persons on average sharing a square meter of the beautiful Festetics Palota in Budapest, the Somló Évjáratbemutató 2008 was far from being an ideal place to find answers to my questions.
These young wines are barrel samples so they’re still expected to change and develop a lot, so the following notes are just impressions rather than result of careful analysis. The scores are hopefully reflecting this potential but I may have made more mistakes this time than usual. Also note that all wines are from 2008 except otherwise stated.
Bazaltbor – Olaszrizling: This Olaszrizling has a fruity nose with apple and pear aromas also on the palate. Fresh, young with lively acids. Score: 4
Bazaltbor Olaszrizling Válogatás: Now this one has a powerful, fresh and clean elderberry bouquet and a more elegant character in general. Still a medium-bodied wine but much better integrated and well-balanced. Score: 5+
Györgykovács – Olaszrizling: This Olaszrizling has an intense, complex mineral nose. On the palate it’s more simple with a small bitterness, and it’s very dry. Score: 5+/6-
Dénes Hegybirtok – Olaszrizling: Vanilla and melted butter aromas on the nose, quite intensely. Has not been filtered yet so its very dense in color and on the nose too. Good texture, creamy but low acidity. The sweet sensation on the palate is a result of the malolactic fermentation as it has no residual sugar. Score: 4
Spiegelber – Olaszrizling: Complex pear and floral aromas on the nose but more simple on the palate, although full-bodied. Very dry with pear notes and a bit of minerality. Score: 4+
Kreinbacher – Olaszrizling: A distinguished bright, lively color. Great nose, very complex of clean elderberry and gooseberry elements and a sulphite and city gas underpinning. Later on the nose: Veggie and spicy chicken stock with lovage and flint, lot of flint. Less intense on the palate, gentle and rounded, the wine has a more mineral and ripe character. Full-bodied with an appealing structure and nicely textured. There’s promise of finess too already. Score: 6+/7
Hollóvár – Olaszrizling: An appalling city gas nose with sulphit and flint and a chalky mineral undertone. Light-medium bodied wine with a nice structure. Very dry. No wine will divide people as much as this one. Score: 6+/7-
Somlói Apátsági Pince - Olaszrizling: Rich bouquet with an unusual Veggie soup with lovage on the nose and very pleasant apple-pear aromas. Firm on the palate, with the same Veggie soup with lovage! Boiled, spicy vegetarian notes with a mineral undertone. Very good one. Score: 6+/7-
Szent Ilona – Olaszrizling: Intense, lively floral nose but very simple on the palate. Score: 4
Kolonics – Olaszrizling: It’s very closed on the nose and it has this handicraft character with a large barrell element. On the palate salty-bitterness, interesting. Score: 5
To wrap up, it’ll be interesting to see how these wines will develop, especially Hollóvár. One thing is certain: the styles are more relevant here than terroir or the grape. On the other hand, there might as well be a Somló terroir, but it’s not yet the time to discuss this.
A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total
What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.
One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.
Tasting Scores 2008
|
Vylyan |
Pinot Noir |
2003 |
5+/6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gál Tibor |
Cabernet Franc |
2001 |
4 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Furmint |
2006 |
5+/6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szecskő Tamás |
Cuvée |
2005 |
6 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Portugieser |
2006 |
7+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Kadarka |
2006 |
3+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Mayer |
Kopár Cuvée |
2004 |
3+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szt. Gaál |
Kékfrankos |
2005 |
6-/6 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Malatinszky |
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Chateau Dereszla |
Dorombor |
2006 |
6+/7- |
BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Kövérszőlő |
2006 |
6+/7- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Bezerics-Németh |
Chardonnay Barrique |
2006 |
3- |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Vylyan |
Montenuovo Cuvée |
2006 |
6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Cramele Halewood |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2006 |
5+ |
FV |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Chateau Dereszla |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
6+ |
BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Vylyan |
Villányi Rizling |
2006 |
3 |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Dereszla |
Dry |
2006 |
5, 5+ |
FV |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Oremus |
Mandolás Furmint |
2003 |
7, 7+ |
FV, BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szabó Zoltán |
Sauvignon Blanc |
|
6+, 7- |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ebner |
Chardonnay |
2006 |
3+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ebner |
Portugieser |
2007 |
3+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Bock |
Merlot |
2002 |
5+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pontica |
Móri Ezerjó |
2006 |
7- |
FV/BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Degenfeld |
Muscat Lunel |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Leo |
Riesling |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Hilltop |
Chardonnay |
2006 |
3 |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heimann |
Merlot |
2006 |
5, 5+ |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heimann |
Kerkaborum |
2006 |
6, 6+ |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Bussay |
Esküvé |
2006 |
5 |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ch. Megyer |
Chardonnay |
2005 |
6, 6+ |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Dereszla |
Furmint Szegi |
2006 |
5+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heumann |
Kékrankos Barrique |
2006 |
6 |
FV (only just) |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Toth István |
Bikavér Válogatás |
2002 |
6+/7- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Jamek |
Riesling Jochinger |
2007 |
5, 5+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Domane Wachau |
Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel |
2005 |
6, 6+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Szelekcio |
2006 |
5+, 6- |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos |
2001 |
8- |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila |
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique |
2000 |
4, 5- |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila |
Kopár Cuvée |
2000 |
7+, 8- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Velezvin |
Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée |
|
4- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pannonhalmi Apátsági |
Rajnai Rizling |
2007 |
4 |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Légli Ottó |
Olasrizling |
|
3- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Domb Cuvée |
2005 |
5 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Légli |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
5+/6- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
4/4- |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kadarka |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció |
2007 |
4- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Olaszrizling |
2007 |
4- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Rosé |
2007 |
5-/5 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kadarka |
2007 |
4+ |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Pinot Noir |
2007 |
5 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Bikavér |
2005 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kékfrankos |
2006 |
|
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kékfrankos Szelekció |
2004 |
5/6- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Optimus |
2006 |
6/6- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Merlot |
2004 |
6 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
7 |
BB |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Monarchia |
Chardonnay (Battonage) |
2006 |
7-/7 |
BB |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Renana |
2007 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eszterbauer |
Nagyapám |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő |
2003 |
6/6+ (6+/7-) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Tamás Pince |
Oriolus Cuvée |
2004 |
5+/6 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500 |
2005 |
6-7 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Takler |
Cuvée Maffiózó |
2000 |
5+/6- (6+) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Mágus Cuvée |
2006 |
6 |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eszterbauer |
Merterünk Cuvée |
2006 |
5 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Leányka |
2007 |
3+ (but interesting) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Rosé Cuvé |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Monarchia |
Grüner Veltliner |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Csányi Pincészet |
Teleki cabernet Sauvignon |
2006 |
4- |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Konyári |
Loliense |
2006 |
6- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
Wine Festival
Tasting Scores
|
Móri Bornapok 2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Miklóscsabi |
Utazótáska |
2007 |
3+/4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Leányka |
2007 |
3+/4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Cuvée |
2007 |
4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Ezerjó |
2006 |
4 |
|
|
|
Miklóscsabi |
Haramia Cuvée |
2007 |
5 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Leányka |
2007 |
4 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
4+/5 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Rajnai Rizling |
2007 |
5+/6- |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Eezrjó |
2007 |
6/6- |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Chardonnay |
2007 |
6 |
|
|
|
VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Ludányi |
Elizabeth Cuvée |
2007 |
4- |
Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine. |
|
|
Degenfeld |
Furmint |
2006 |
3+ |
Furmint smell, bitterness, wood. |
|
|
Lesence |
Riesling (Rajnai Rizling) |
2007 |
6- (or 6) |
Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light. |
Top Wine |
|
Tornai |
Grófi Hárslevelű |
2006 |
6, 6+ |
Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow. This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it. |
|
|
Dereszla |
Dorombor |
2007 |
6+, 7- |
80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last. |
Top Wine |
|
Orsolya |
Pnot Noir |
2006 |
5/5- |
Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill. |
|
|
Scheller |
Áldozói Chardonnay |
2003 |
7- |
|
|
|
Pontica |
(Móri) Ezerjó |
2006 |
4+ |
It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there. I’m curious about their new works. |
|
|
Kikelet |
Furmint (Tokaj) |
2006 |
|
Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700. |
|
|
Kikelet |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
5+, (6-?) |
Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice. |
|
|
Orsolya |
Hermány Leányka |
2006 |
6 |
Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine. |
|
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Laposa |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
5+ |
Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine. |
Fair value |
|
Kreinbacher |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
4 |
Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier. |
Overrated |
|
Györgykovács |
Olaszrizling |
2006 |
6 |
Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling Selection |
2006 |
6-, 6 |
Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Laposa |
Bazaltbor, juhfark |
2006 |
5+ |
Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%! |
|
|
Tornai |
Juhfark selection |
2006 |
7 |
Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Furmint |
2006 |
5- |
Apple. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Tramini |
2006 |
6 |
Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
3+ |
Forgettable. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Furmint |
2006 |
|
|
|
|
Kaló Imre |
Leányka |
2001 |
|
Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%! |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Hárslevelű |
|
4 |
Average. |
|
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling |
|
4- |
Sparkling. Cheap. |
|
|
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities. |
|||||
Somlói Tavasz Fesztivál (Somló Spring)
I must admit I am not a regular festival visitor and I was surprised by the size of the Somló Tavasz festival: about a dozen twin kiosks, a hundred visitors and a huge tent describe well the scale of this event on the meadow on the outskirts of Somlóvásárhely. According to my winemaker friend, 40% of the visitors are regular festivalgoers who never miss one (hence the marketing value of the event is a bit questionable). All ages and all types of people were present: old ladies from the neighbouring villages sat in the tent quitely sipping their drinks while staring at the stage to check the appearance of a folklore dance group, there were families wandering around, kids riding horses, and some young folks trying to get a bit drunk. I really couldn’t spot any of the urban yuppies here who usually frequent these types of events. And no foreigners either.
It was charming and looked more like a big family reunion in a family where winemaking tradition’s got its roots from times when Juhfark was not yet recognised as a standalone grape.
Besides the local names (Györgykovács, Tornai, etc.) almost the same number of guest winemakers offered their wines, with few exceptions almost only from 2006 and 2005.
I really don’t think that festivals allow you to do some in-depth analysis of wine, it’s rather a quick scan of where are we standing and tasting unknown wines and trying to memorise those that you would like to try at home. So here are my notes, but since I did swallow all of these (at least in quantities of 1/2 dl) the objectivity is questionalbe. So I keep the order, I leave it to you what “filter” you apply to my judgement.
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Laposa |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
5+ |
Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine. |
Fair value |
|
Kreinbacher |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
4 |
Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier. |
Overrated |
|
Györgykovács |
Olaszrizling |
2006 |
6 |
Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling Selection |
2006 |
6-, 6 |
Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Laposa |
Bazaltbor, juhfark |
2006 |
5+ |
Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%! |
|
|
Tornai |
Juhfark selection |
2006 |
7 |
Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Furmint |
2006 |
5- |
Apple. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Tramini |
2006 |
6 |
Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
3+ |
Forgettable. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Furmint |
2006 |
|
|
|
|
Kaló Imre |
Leányka |
2001 |
|
Intense smell, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%! |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Hárslevelű |
|
4 |
Average. |
|
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling |
|
4- |
Sparkling. Cheap. |
|
|
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities. |
|||||
