Szabó Zoltán – Cirfandli, 2009
Deep golden yellow. Heavy bouquet, revealing almost nothing in terms of fruits or else. On the palate highly concentrated substance with some wet grassy notes at opening. Full-bodied wine, rich in fairly exciting stoney and mineral notes from the mid-palate, but I’d like more acidity and liveliness here. It looks like acids cannot bear the 16% alcohol. Good length though. When chilled it’ll reveal an even richer stony character with picante olive aromas and texture.
I recommend this for lovers of rather enigmatic wines.
Click to enlarge
Pécsi Zöldveltelini from 2008
Zöldveltelini isn’t one of my favorite varietals and as such seldom is poured with much expectations, or at all. Yet after Szabó Zoltán’s surprisingly good Merlot recently I thought why not give it a go when it only costs a thousand forints (well, that’s why, I know), but it proved money very well spent.
It has an unmistakable apple pie nose with a lemon balm edge, the pie made with cinnamon. Warm, sweet and well rounded. Apple juice flavored palate with lot of acidity, not in a crunchy way. Thin Zöldveltelini but filled with aroma. Later supported by a hint of saltyness. Very good wine for the price.
Score: 4+/5-
Price: HUF 1200
A new hope
This is just to let you know that there might be less and less bargains out there but I’ve found a rare good red wine under HUF 2000 which I now put on my watchlist. Although Szabó Zoltán’s Riesling 2007 was a bit disapointing after the breakthrough 2006, the Merlot 2007 is a very decent effort for the price and makes me wonder how the 2006 could have been.
I used this Merlot to make magrets of duck (following Larousse Gastronomique’s receipe, which is a wonderful book btw, sticking predictably to some of the clichés as long as Hungarian wines are concerned but fortunately weighting Hungarian wines properly by dedicating it no more than a few lines on its more than 1 2000 pages) and although I cleared two galsses of it in the process I cannot write a proper review just yet but I was impressed by the balance, the soft texture and the freshly intense fruityness (cherry) of such a thin wine. I don’t dare to make prediction for how long this wine may age well but it still certainly has a vibe that gives me hope I can still enjoy it in the near future again. And this may just as well be a new start for Pécs’s red wine evolution (Europe’s capital of culture, LOL).
A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total
What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.
One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.
Tasting Scores 2008
|
Vylyan |
Pinot Noir |
2003 |
5+/6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gál Tibor |
Cabernet Franc |
2001 |
4 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Furmint |
2006 |
5+/6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szecskő Tamás |
Cuvée |
2005 |
6 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Portugieser |
2006 |
7+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Kadarka |
2006 |
3+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Mayer |
Kopár Cuvée |
2004 |
3+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szt. Gaál |
Kékfrankos |
2005 |
6-/6 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Malatinszky |
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Chateau Dereszla |
Dorombor |
2006 |
6+/7- |
BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Kövérszőlő |
2006 |
6+/7- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Bezerics-Németh |
Chardonnay Barrique |
2006 |
3- |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Vylyan |
Montenuovo Cuvée |
2006 |
6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Cramele Halewood |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2006 |
5+ |
FV |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Chateau Dereszla |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
6+ |
BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Vylyan |
Villányi Rizling |
2006 |
3 |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Dereszla |
Dry |
2006 |
5, 5+ |
FV |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Oremus |
Mandolás Furmint |
2003 |
7, 7+ |
FV, BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szabó Zoltán |
Sauvignon Blanc |
|
6+, 7- |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ebner |
Chardonnay |
2006 |
3+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ebner |
Portugieser |
2007 |
3+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Bock |
Merlot |
2002 |
5+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pontica |
Móri Ezerjó |
2006 |
7- |
FV/BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Degenfeld |
Muscat Lunel |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Leo |
Riesling |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Hilltop |
Chardonnay |
2006 |
3 |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heimann |
Merlot |
2006 |
5, 5+ |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heimann |
Kerkaborum |
2006 |
6, 6+ |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Bussay |
Esküvé |
2006 |
5 |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ch. Megyer |
Chardonnay |
2005 |
6, 6+ |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Dereszla |
Furmint Szegi |
2006 |
5+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heumann |
Kékrankos Barrique |
2006 |
6 |
FV (only just) |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Toth István |
Bikavér Válogatás |
2002 |
6+/7- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Jamek |
Riesling Jochinger |
2007 |
5, 5+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Domane Wachau |
Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel |
2005 |
6, 6+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Szelekcio |
2006 |
5+, 6- |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos |
2001 |
8- |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila |
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique |
2000 |
4, 5- |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila |
Kopár Cuvée |
2000 |
7+, 8- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Velezvin |
Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée |
|
4- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pannonhalmi Apátsági |
Rajnai Rizling |
2007 |
4 |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Légli Ottó |
Olasrizling |
|
3- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Domb Cuvée |
2005 |
5 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Légli |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
5+/6- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
4/4- |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kadarka |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció |
2007 |
4- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Olaszrizling |
2007 |
4- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Rosé |
2007 |
5-/5 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kadarka |
2007 |
4+ |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Pinot Noir |
2007 |
5 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Bikavér |
2005 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kékfrankos |
2006 |
|
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kékfrankos Szelekció |
2004 |
5/6- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Optimus |
2006 |
6/6- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Merlot |
2004 |
6 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
7 |
BB |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Monarchia |
Chardonnay (Battonage) |
2006 |
7-/7 |
BB |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Renana |
2007 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eszterbauer |
Nagyapám |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő |
2003 |
6/6+ (6+/7-) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Tamás Pince |
Oriolus Cuvée |
2004 |
5+/6 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500 |
2005 |
6-7 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Takler |
Cuvée Maffiózó |
2000 |
5+/6- (6+) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Mágus Cuvée |
2006 |
6 |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eszterbauer |
Merterünk Cuvée |
2006 |
5 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Leányka |
2007 |
3+ (but interesting) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Rosé Cuvé |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Monarchia |
Grüner Veltliner |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Csányi Pincészet |
Teleki cabernet Sauvignon |
2006 |
4- |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Konyári |
Loliense |
2006 |
6- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
Wine Festival
Tasting Scores
|
Móri Bornapok 2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Miklóscsabi |
Utazótáska |
2007 |
3+/4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Leányka |
2007 |
3+/4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Cuvée |
2007 |
4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Ezerjó |
2006 |
4 |
|
|
|
Miklóscsabi |
Haramia Cuvée |
2007 |
5 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Leányka |
2007 |
4 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
4+/5 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Rajnai Rizling |
2007 |
5+/6- |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Eezrjó |
2007 |
6/6- |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Chardonnay |
2007 |
6 |
|
|
|
VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Ludányi |
Elizabeth Cuvée |
2007 |
4- |
Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine. |
|
|
Degenfeld |
Furmint |
2006 |
3+ |
Furmint smell, bitterness, wood. |
|
|
Lesence |
Riesling (Rajnai Rizling) |
2007 |
6- (or 6) |
Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light. |
Top Wine |
|
Tornai |
Grófi Hárslevelű |
2006 |
6, 6+ |
Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow. This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it. |
|
|
Dereszla |
Dorombor |
2007 |
6+, 7- |
80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last. |
Top Wine |
|
Orsolya |
Pnot Noir |
2006 |
5/5- |
Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill. |
|
|
Scheller |
Áldozói Chardonnay |
2003 |
7- |
|
|
|
Pontica |
(Móri) Ezerjó |
2006 |
4+ |
It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there. I’m curious about their new works. |
|
|
Kikelet |
Furmint (Tokaj) |
2006 |
|
Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700. |
|
|
Kikelet |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
5+, (6-?) |
Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice. |
|
|
Orsolya |
Hermány Leányka |
2006 |
6 |
Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine. |
|
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Laposa |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
5+ |
Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine. |
Fair value |
|
Kreinbacher |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
4 |
Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier. |
Overrated |
|
Györgykovács |
Olaszrizling |
2006 |
6 |
Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling Selection |
2006 |
6-, 6 |
Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Laposa |
Bazaltbor, juhfark |
2006 |
5+ |
Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%! |
|
|
Tornai |
Juhfark selection |
2006 |
7 |
Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Furmint |
2006 |
5- |
Apple. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Tramini |
2006 |
6 |
Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
3+ |
Forgettable. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Furmint |
2006 |
|
|
|
|
Kaló Imre |
Leányka |
2001 |
|
Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%! |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Hárslevelű |
|
4 |
Average. |
|
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling |
|
4- |
Sparkling. Cheap. |
|
|
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities. |
|||||
Riesling International Perspective
I started the International Perspective blog entry category for orientation purposes and the most difficult thing about it is finding peer group members in the international space on reasonable ground. I have no strick rules so I thought I just would pick 2 wines (possibly of similar size on territory size parity, for Hungary being quite small) within a certain price range.
This time however I’ve chosen 2 well-known Wachau Riesling wines and tasted them against a relatively unknown Hungarian producer. To be fair, all vintages are widely considered good or outstanding.
I reviewed Szabo Zoltán’s Riesling 2006 recently. It was fresh, with intense floral and grassy nose with a hint of vanilla. On the palate citrus and peppermint, supported by robust, rustic acidity and intense aromas mostlyderiving from long lee contact. And stony minerality. The nose and the palate were in harmony in this full-bodied wine. It has wild but pleasant complexity. It also kept its quality for a day.
Few weeks later I noticed a smoky undertone, some woody accents and unripe apricot.
Score: 6+/7-
Jamek is one of the best-known Wachau winemakers. The Jamek Riesling Jochinger 2007 was brighter than Szabo’s riesling, with crab apple nose. On the palate greenish acidity supporting crab apple, grapefruit and minerality with herbal accents. Very refreshing, still round wine. The traubi-like bitterness provides pleasant freshness along with the young but already elegant acidity. The bouquet is later completed with paraffin.
It’s overall a young, fresh, dynamic wine which is pleasant to drink and has a local character.
Score: 5, 5+
I thought opening a Smaragd would be unfair. So I opened a Domane Wachau Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel 2005 inadvertently. But it turned out to be good because I only noticed my mistake after a few sips and to my biggest surprise I found the followings.
Medium gressy color with greenish reflections. Rich bouquet, intense, lovely floral and fruity nose (mango, citruses, walnut), very elegant, very pleasant to sniff.
Nicely styled on the palate but shows different character, less aromas. A bit woody and bitter with long acidity. Wet grass on the palate much later with minerality. The day after the grass element is even longer and more intense. Almost full body. Good wine but slightly disappointing for HUF 4 500 (EUR 18) against Szabó Zoltán’s HUF 1 500 (EUR 6).
Score: 6, 6+
Szabó Zoltán, Rajnai Rizling (Riesling), 2006
I fell for the hype. Having read the enthousiastic review few days ago on amuva.hu, I did not hesitate too much and I eventually ended up buying the 2 last bottles in the shop. Because this wine is not widely available in Budapest and I bought these two in a bookstore (well, I bought 2 other bottles in their other store a bit farther the same day).
According to a short self-introduction in a hidden corner of the web, Zoltán Szabó is an experimental winemaker currently owning only 2 hectars having mainly Chardonnay, Riesling and Zöldveltelini, plus 10 (!) local varietals from the Kárpát-bassin. He even made Aszú from Riesling for a try.
I couldn’t say I did not have high expectations.
The review
Bright lively hay color and lively moves in the glass.
It’s intense smell is an exotic mixture of fresh grass, minerals and flowers with a hint of tropical fruits, camilla and citrus. It’s almost like not only made of Riesling.
The taste is in sync with the smell but very quickly the acids wash away all other tastes. You have to wait more than an hour to enjoy more the taste and the wine to become a round, full-bodied (for a white) wine. But first citrus and peppermint are dominantand the acids provide a long finish. It also comes with a little bit of bubble sparkling.
Later the minerals become more palpable, almost dominant. At this moment it reminds me of Mandolás Furmint in style but wit more acid of course. Unfortunately the wine’s building blocks start to fall apart after only about 2 hours, but it’s still enjoyable.
For EUR 6, it’s a best buy. For those who like nice acids, this wine scores 0,5-1 points higher than for those who like a more balanced, round wine.
Score: 6+
Price: EUR 6
