Budapest Daily Review » Mór

A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total

admin — Sun, 04 Jan 2009 22:00:38 +0000

What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.

One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.

Tasting Scores 2008

Vylyan	Pinot Noir	2003	5+/6-		(in Q2 2008)
Gál Tibor	Cabernet Franc	2001	4		(in Q2 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Furmint	2006	5+/6-		(in Q2 2008)
Szecskő Tamás	Cuvée	2005	6		(in Q2 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Portugieser	2006	7+		(in Q2 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Kadarka	2006	3+		(in Q2 2008)
Mayer	Kopár Cuvée	2004	3+		(in Q2 2008)
Szt. Gaál	Kékfrankos	2005	6-/6		(in Q2 2008)
Malatinszky	Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique	2006	3+	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Chateau Dereszla	Dorombor	2006	6+/7-	BB	(in Q2 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Kövérszőlő	2006	6+/7-		(in Q2 2008)
Bezerics-Németh	Chardonnay Barrique	2006	3-	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Vylyan	Montenuovo Cuvée	2006	6-		(in Q2 2008)
Cramele Halewood	Sauvignon Blanc	2006	5+	FV	(in Q2 2008)
Chateau Dereszla	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	6+	BB	(in Q2 2008)
Vylyan	Villányi Rizling	2006	3	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Dereszla	Dry	2006	5, 5+	FV	(in Q2 2008)
Oremus	Mandolás Furmint	2003	7, 7+	FV, BB	(in Q2 2008)
Szabó Zoltán	Sauvignon Blanc		6+, 7-	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Ebner	Chardonnay	2006	3+		(in Q3 2008)
Ebner	Portugieser	2007	3+		(in Q3 2008)
Bock	Merlot	2002	5+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Pontica	Móri Ezerjó	2006	7-	FV/BB	(in Q3 2008)
Degenfeld	Muscat Lunel	2007	4		(in Q3 2008)
Leo	Riesling	2006	3+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Hilltop	Chardonnay	2006	3	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Heimann	Merlot	2006	5, 5+	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Heimann	Kerkaborum	2006	6, 6+	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Bussay	Esküvé	2006	5	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Ch. Megyer	Chardonnay	2005	6, 6+	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Dereszla	Furmint Szegi	2006	5+		(in Q3 2008)
Heumann	Kékrankos Barrique	2006	6	FV (only just)	(in Q3 2008)
Toth István	Bikavér Válogatás	2002	6+/7-		(in Q3 2008)
Jamek	Riesling Jochinger	2007	5, 5+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Domane Wachau	Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel	2005	6, 6+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Szelekcio	2006	5+, 6-	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos	2001	8-	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Gere Attila	Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique	2000	4, 5-	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Gere Attila	Kopár Cuvée	2000	7+, 8-		(in Q3 2008)
Velezvin	Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée		4-		(in Q3 2008)
Pannonhalmi Apátsági	Rajnai Rizling	2007	4	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Légli Ottó	Olasrizling		3-	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Domb Cuvée	2005	5	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Légli	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	5+/6-	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc	2007	4/4-	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kadarka	2007	4		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció	2007	4-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Olaszrizling	2007	4-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Rosé	2007	5-/5		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kadarka	2007	4+		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Pinot Noir	2007	5		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Bikavér	2005	4		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kékfrankos	2006			(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kékfrankos Szelekció	2004	5/6-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Optimus	2006	6/6-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Merlot	2004	6		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	7	BB	(in Q4 2008)
Monarchia	Chardonnay (Battonage)	2006	7-/7	BB	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Renana	2007	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eszterbauer	Nagyapám	2006	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő	2003	6/6+ (6+/7-)		(in Q4 2008)
Tamás Pince	Oriolus Cuvée	2004	5+/6	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500	2005	6-7		(in Q4 2008)
Takler	Cuvée Maffiózó	2000	5+/6- (6+)		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Mágus Cuvée	2006	6	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Eszterbauer	Merterünk Cuvée	2006	5	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Leányka	2007	3+ (but interesting)		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Rosé Cuvé	2007	4		(in Q4 2008)
Monarchia	Grüner Veltliner	2006	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Csányi Pincészet	Teleki cabernet Sauvignon	2006	4-	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Konyári	Loliense	2006	6-	OR	(in Q4 2008)

Wine Festival

Tasting Scores

Móri Bornapok 2008
On-site tasting notes.
Miklóscsabi	Utazótáska	2007	3+/4-
Bozóky	Leányka	2007	3+/4-
Bozóky	Cuvée	2007	4-
Bozóky	Ezerjó	2006	4
Miklóscsabi	Haramia Cuvée	2007	5
Maurus	Leányka	2007	4
Maurus	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	4+/5
Maurus	Rajnai Rizling	2007	5+/6-
Maurus	Eezrjó	2007	6/6-
Maurus	Chardonnay	2007	6

VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008
On-site tasting notes.
Ludányi	Elizabeth Cuvée	2007	4-	Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine.
Degenfeld	Furmint	2006	3+	Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
Lesence	Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)	2007	6- (or 6)	Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light.	Top Wine
Tornai	Grófi Hárslevelű	2006	6, 6+	Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow. This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
Dereszla	Dorombor	2007	6+, 7-	80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.	Top Wine
Orsolya	Pnot Noir	2006	5/5-	Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
Scheller	Áldozói Chardonnay	2003	7-
Pontica	(Móri) Ezerjó	2006	4+	It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there. I’m curious about their new works.
Kikelet	Furmint (Tokaj)	2006		Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
Kikelet	Hárslevelű	2006	5+, (6-?)	Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
Orsolya	Hermány Leányka	2006	6	Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
On-site tasting notes.
Laposa	Olaszrizling	2005	5+	Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.	Fair value
Kreinbacher	Olaszrizling	2005	4	Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.	Overrated
Györgykovács	Olaszrizling	2006	6	Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.	Fair value, almost best buy
Tornai	Olaszrizling Selection	2006	6-, 6	Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.	Fair value, almost best buy
Laposa	Bazaltbor, juhfark	2006	5+	Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!
Tornai	Juhfark selection	2006	7	Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.
Györgykovács	Furmint	2006	5-	Apple.
Györgykovács	Tramini	2006	6	Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)	Hárslevelű	2006	3+	Forgettable.
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)	Furmint	2006
Kaló Imre	Leányka	2001		Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!
Györgykovács	Hárslevelű		4	Average.
Tornai	Olaszrizling		4-	Sparkling. Cheap.
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.

Móri Bornapok, 2008

admin — Mon, 06 Oct 2008 20:19:48 +0000

The Mór wine festival accidentally falls onto the same days as the more prestigious Villány and Tokaj wine festivals. The less known event however attracted a crowd this saturday that completely filled the streets despite the chilly wind. Mór offered them a street music festival combined with a typical Hungarian country street event (i.e. tons of unhealthy food, vattacukor and usual market crap) with families of all ages from the surrounding cities and villages and, to my biggest surprise, foreign visitors. I’ve heard French and English words, besides the German spoken by a band marching the streets dressed like… whatever (I believe however that these musical events and football games provide you with a unique opportunity to see man of all ages feeling good in their long white socks showing off. Skirts are just an extra here).

Anyway, I had to drink very quickly because my wife’s been fluttering like the kocsonya (missing from the menu, btw, and it’s a Hungarian food if you would be wondering, basically cold pork bone soup with pork leg in it) so I had no opportunity to discover the rule(s) which drive people to one winery’s quiosque and make them completely ignore others.

The Information stand however had a middle-aged lady who not only distributed brochures but knew all of the winemakers I asked her about by nickname (I didn’t, so I had to double-check them). I still missed Pontica.

Due to the strong wind and a rush, my tasting notes are very short and quite unreliable.

Miklóscsabi – Utazótáska, 2007

This Királyleányka has pale bright color, round acidity and crab apple and pie character on the palate, completed with residual sugar leaving a fresh impression.

Score: 3+, 4-

Bozóky – Leányka, 2007

Pale, almost transparent color with greenish reflexions. Less intense with less bitterness and acidity, but overall a pleasant wine.

Score: 3+/4-

Bozóky – Cuvée, 2007

Pale yellow with greenish reflexions, just like the Királyleányka and other Bozóky wines to follow. Bozóky is considered a major winery in Mór but even their cellar is quite small. The old lady who took care of the visitors was very friendly and responsive considering that they attracted most of the visitors interested in a tour in a local cellar. I never quite understood though how can people enjoy a glass of wine in a crowded, smelly room. These notes were taken outside of the building.

So the Cuvée has a similar pale tone as the others. It’s smoother with less acidity but with a more intense nose and flavors.

Score: 4-

Bozóky – Ezerjó, 2006

Pale yellow color. More elegant than the others but still with a quite short finish. Better structure and better integrated even with a mineral undertone and an appealing cabbage-like finish.

Score: 4

Miklóscsabi – Haramia Cuvée, 2007

This semi-dry Cuvée is made of Tramini, Leányka and Pinot Blanc. It’s full-bodied compared to the previous ones and this late harvest character is dominant until the finish. It has a distinctive pale-brassy color. The residual sugar is supported by nice, round acidity. It has better structure than the Bozóky wines. A velvet-vanilla undertone complete the overall nice sensation.

Score: 5 points

Maurus – Leányka, 2007

Medium-pale golden color and floral notes on the nose. Well balanced with medium body, round acidity and long finish.

I have to note here that the Maurus wines have very nice labels. And although only the Ezerjó is produced by Kamocsay (on a total of 0,7 hectares) the wines to follow somehow have a common stylish element.

Score: 4 points

Maurus – Sauvignon Blanc, 2007

Remarkably nice onion-brassy color and nice, round acidity.

Score: 4+/5

Maurus – Rajnai Rizling, 2007

Pale yellow with green-apple reflexions. On the palate oaky-vanilla notes maybe a little bit over the top. On the palate fruity elements and some residual sugar are supported by medium acidity. It’s a nice riesling with a long finish.

Score: 5+/6-

Maurus – Ezerjó, 2007

Pale bright yellow. On the palate complex aromas of vanilla, oak and floral notes with gooseberry and acacia elements and round acidity. A little bit sweeter than it should be for a dry wine.

Score: 6/6-

Maurus – Chardonnay

Elegant wine with some oaky vanilla and appealing bitter acidity and a tobacco-like undertone.

Score: 6 points

Pontica – Móri Ezerjó, 2006

admin — Mon, 07 Jul 2008 19:00:07 +0000

About Pontica Bt.

According to this web site, Pontica was established in 2004 to produce mainly Ezerjó late harvest dry wines, but soon they realized that Ezerjó is suitable for botrytis rotting. Altogether they’re cultivating 0,7 hectares in the Mór region, 91% of it being 20-40 years old Ezerjó vines. The total expected output in 2008 will be only 2000 bottles. Their Ezerjó 2005 was elected wine of the city of Mór in 2007. They proudly consider themselves a family winery producing handicraft wines. As you may suspect, this is not a widely available wine.

The review

Deep golden color, almost brown. It’s intense in all kinds of sun-dried fruits smell (of both continental and tropical fruits) and taste but mostly apricot and a little bit of almond and a pale walnut tone. It’s a bit sweet but it’s supported by nice acids and minerals. It reminds me of better dry Szamorodnis.

You can also feel a great deal of acacia honey and maple syrup or simply regular raisin. And a lot of tangerine, sun-dried tangerine. And they all come very intensely.

It’s a little bit syrup-like to my taste but all above and significant amounts of minerals in taste compensate for it. Actually as time passes minerals become dominant and provide a long-lasting finish. It’s a very pleasant rustic wine. It’s complex and round, almost robust, not very elegant but very attractive.

Score: 7-

Price: I think it I paid around EUR 8 for it, but I’ not sure. Then it would be 8 euros very well spent.

VII. Pannon Bországgyűlés – Wine Festival

admin — Sat, 07 Jun 2008 22:02:13 +0000

I don’t even dare to translate the word “Bországgyűlés” for You, although the significant number of foreigners who visited the event despite the heavy rain which lasted almost the whole day would deserve a try. Anyway, it wasn’t a gathering of the nations’ parliamentary delegates of winemaking as the name would suggest, I was actually surprised by the small number of wineries present, but even more by their distribution within the festival area. Despite the intense grass and other natural smell coming from the surrounding park in the rain I tried to take tasting notes. My idea was that I would taste and review the winners of the VIIth Pannon Bormustra contest. Unfortunately very few of the winners actually exhibited at the Festival so I’ll indicate in the table below those who won the “Top Wine” awarded by a jury consisting of international experts like Dante Brancaleoni and winemakers like René Rostaing as well as Hungarian wine drinkers or so called experts. As always, please read the following report as a rough guide only, since I hardly ever spit during a wine tasting (unless the wine is really rubbish) and the local food selection has also provided a strong smelly background which certainly distorted the senses. So here’s a quick snapshot from the Festival, without any in-depth analysis.

Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
On-site tasting notes.
Ludányi	Elizabeth Cuvée	2007	4-	Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not very interesting wine.
Degenfeld	Furmint	2006	3+	Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
Lesence	Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)	2007	6- (or 6)	Elegant acid and smell, nice finish. Easy, light.	Top Wine
Tornai	Grófi Hárslevelű	2006	6, 6+	Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow. This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
Dereszla	Dorombor	2007	6+, 7-	80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.	Top Wine
Orsolya	Pnot Noir	2006	5/5-	Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
Scheller	Áldozói Chardonnay	2003	7-
Pontica	(Móri) Ezerjó	2006	4+	It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there. I’m curious about their new works.
Kikelet	Furmint (Tokaj)	2006		Outstanding smell, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
Kikelet	Hárslevelű	2006	5+, (6-?)	Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
Orsolya	Hermány Leányka	2006	6	Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.

Here’s a photo from the venue of one of Budapest’s most important wine festivals.