What I wrote yesterday about Tóth István’s Kékfrankos 2003 applies for all of his wines, with more or less minor changes. So instead of repeating myself I present you the delta between the two wines.
First of all this is a blend, a Bikavér as we know it but don’t let this convention confuse you. The only difference on the nose is that this Bikavér has more wild mushroom notes and some sour cherry, but fundamentally very barrell influenced just as the Kékfrankos. The tannin’s a bit scratchy sometimes.
I had to buy this wine, and although it may look like I’m obsessed with Tóth István’s wines I want to make it clear that they’re not that good. But they’re not bad either and if the northern winemaker’s wines are not exactly enigmatic, they’re certainly different from not just the mainstream wines, but most terroir wines too. Knowing that, who wouldn’t buy a Kékfrankos made in 2003, with so little to lose (HUF 2000)?
But before you do, you should know that this wine will devide opinions. Some of you will pour, taste, spit and perhaps never return to this blog if I don’t make this disclaimer.
Tóth István, Kékfrankos, 2003
Blurred, deep ruby with brownish tones and a terracotta rim (so far this could be any Tóth István wine). Another trademark of his will follow on the nose: mouldy, earthy and stuffy and that won’t change with time. On the palate red fruity notes mingled with meaditerranean spices. Hard structure with tannin providing firm underpinning to the rubber taste substance but the tannin will smoothen and become softer after longer contact with the air. The acidity won’t, it remains harsh especially in the finish.
Only for hard core terroir fans who are not afraid of old barrels.
Posted: February 4th, 2011
Categories:
Tóth István
Tags:
Eger,
Fair price,
Kékfrankos
Comments:
No Comments.
Red wines under HUF2000 is a dangerous territory, but also an inevitable one. Here’s two of it, one is a finding from Budapest’s misterious stock (50% off from retail price) of Orbán square’s grocery store and the other one, well, I have no idea. I used to drink Takler wines a lot. I don’t miss those times, and I knew this before I opened the bottle. With Tóth István, you never know.
Takler – Merlot, 2008
Lively medium-deep cherry hue, just lovely. Fresh fruity bouquet with mulberry and black-currant. On the palate fresh but too thin and tannic with hints of sloe and black-currant with an appalling bitter undertone.
Tóth István – Merlot, 2004
Blurred ruby with a brownish rim. Lovely nose with, again, black-currant and mulberry, intense and jammy, later with a cigarette smoke accent. Feels much younger than it is with it’s harsh acidity. It’s loosiness won’t get any better after 80 minutes in spite of some tasty strawberry jam coming through.
Both wines had attractive bouquet but both missed the target on the palate, the Takler by miles and the Tóth István only just. I paid HUF 900 for it so i didn’t mind.
Posted: January 12th, 2011
Categories:
Takler,
Tóth István
Tags:
Eger,
Merlot,
Szekszárd
Comments:
No Comments.
A Cabernet Franc from 2006 cannot be bad, I thought, when I returned to the merchant where I previously bought the two rather disapopointing Bikavérs of Tóth István. I was right: this Cabernet Franc is quite what you expect from this varietal from that vintage.
Tóth István – Cabernet Franc, 2006
Fresh look of vibrant claret with purplish reflections and a pinkish rim, very unexpectedly from Eger’s artisan winemaker. The nose is fresh and fruity, with intense black-currant aroma and hints of spices. On the palate well balanced and structurally evolved with fairly rich, meaty berry fruits and a spicy undertone (black pepper mainly). Very good, delicious length. Not too weighty, the tannins are absorbed by sweet alcohol (14.6%). With some exposure to air the fruitiness is a touch reduced giving space for chocolate and sweet sour cherry over a thin layer of light minerality.
Well chosen style for the vintage and a best buy (I paid HUF 2000 for it on Budapest’s Orbán tér although the usual high street price is much higher than that).
Posted: November 14th, 2010
Categories:
Tóth István
Tags:
2006,
Artisan wines,
best buy,
Cabernet Franc,
Eger,
red
Comments:
No Comments.
When I ran into a massive sell-off of Tóth István Merlot wines in a grocery store (down by 60%) in Orbán tér I thought I’ve found the best buy of the month. Although I never understood the cult following of Tóth István, his wines never really disappointed me. The winemaker whose most recent wines on the market were made in 2004 is apparently liquidating his stock, but until heextends it to the much admired Bikavér Válogatás, let’s have a look at the naked Merlot from 2004. I bought a bottle and I found it a bit strange (with a mix symptom of corked wine and ethyl acetate). So I bough a second bottle and it felt the same, leding me to the conclusion that this must be the Eger terroir then.
Tóth István – Merlot, 2004
Blurred brownish turning towards purple. On the nose raspberry mingled with pomegranate, but a bit dull and stuffy. Well-balanced light palate with lively acidity finely embedded into the deep soft and slightly sour tannins.
Posted: November 6th, 2010
Categories:
Tóth István
Tags:
2004,
Artisan wines,
Eger,
Merlot
Comments:
No Comments.
What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.
One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.
Tasting Scores 2008
|
Vylyan
|
Pinot Noir
|
2003
|
5+/6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gál Tibor
|
Cabernet Franc
|
2001
|
4
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
5+/6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szecskő Tamás
|
Cuvée
|
2005
|
6
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Portugieser
|
2006
|
7+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Kadarka
|
2006
|
3+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Mayer
|
Kopár Cuvée
|
2004
|
3+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szt. Gaál
|
Kékfrankos
|
2005
|
6-/6
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Malatinszky
|
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Chateau Dereszla
|
Dorombor
|
2006
|
6+/7-
|
BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Kövérszőlő
|
2006
|
6+/7-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Bezerics-Németh
|
Chardonnay Barrique
|
2006
|
3-
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Vylyan
|
Montenuovo Cuvée
|
2006
|
6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Cramele Halewood
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2006
|
5+
|
FV
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Chateau Dereszla
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
6+
|
BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Vylyan
|
Villányi Rizling
|
2006
|
3
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Dereszla
|
Dry
|
2006
|
5, 5+
|
FV
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Oremus
|
Mandolás Furmint
|
2003
|
7, 7+
|
FV, BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szabó Zoltán
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
|
6+, 7-
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ebner
|
Chardonnay
|
2006
|
3+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ebner
|
Portugieser
|
2007
|
3+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Bock
|
Merlot
|
2002
|
5+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Pontica
|
Móri Ezerjó
|
2006
|
7-
|
FV/BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Degenfeld
|
Muscat Lunel
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Leo
|
Riesling
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Hilltop
|
Chardonnay
|
2006
|
3
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heimann
|
Merlot
|
2006
|
5, 5+
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heimann
|
Kerkaborum
|
2006
|
6, 6+
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Bussay
|
Esküvé
|
2006
|
5
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ch. Megyer
|
Chardonnay
|
2005
|
6, 6+
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Dereszla
|
Furmint Szegi
|
2006
|
5+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heumann
|
Kékrankos Barrique
|
2006
|
6
|
FV (only just)
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Toth István
|
Bikavér Válogatás
|
2002
|
6+/7-
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Jamek
|
Riesling Jochinger
|
2007
|
5, 5+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Domane Wachau
|
Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel
|
2005
|
6, 6+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Szelekcio
|
2006
|
5+, 6-
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos
|
2001
|
8-
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila
|
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique
|
2000
|
4, 5-
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila
|
Kopár Cuvée
|
2000
|
7+, 8-
|
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Velezvin
|
Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée
|
|
4-
|
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pannonhalmi Apátsági
|
Rajnai Rizling
|
2007
|
4
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Légli Ottó
|
Olasrizling
|
|
3-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Domb Cuvée
|
2005
|
5
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Légli
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
5+/6-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
4/4-
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kadarka
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Olaszrizling
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Rosé
|
2007
|
5-/5
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kadarka
|
2007
|
4+
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Pinot Noir
|
2007
|
5
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Bikavér
|
2005
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kékfrankos
|
2006
|
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kékfrankos Szelekció
|
2004
|
5/6-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Optimus
|
2006
|
6/6-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Merlot
|
2004
|
6
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
7
|
BB
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Monarchia
|
Chardonnay (Battonage)
|
2006
|
7-/7
|
BB
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Renana
|
2007
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eszterbauer
|
Nagyapám
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő
|
2003
|
6/6+ (6+/7-)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Tamás Pince
|
Oriolus Cuvée
|
2004
|
5+/6
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500
|
2005
|
6-7
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Takler
|
Cuvée Maffiózó
|
2000
|
5+/6- (6+)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Mágus Cuvée
|
2006
|
6
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eszterbauer
|
Merterünk Cuvée
|
2006
|
5
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
3+ (but interesting)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Rosé Cuvé
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Monarchia
|
Grüner Veltliner
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Csányi Pincészet
|
Teleki cabernet Sauvignon
|
2006
|
4-
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Konyári
|
Loliense
|
2006
|
6-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
Wine Festival
Tasting Scores
|
Móri Bornapok 2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Miklóscsabi
|
Utazótáska
|
2007
|
3+/4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
3+/4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Cuvée
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Ezerjó
|
2006
|
4
|
|
|
|
Miklóscsabi
|
Haramia Cuvée
|
2007
|
5
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
4
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
4+/5
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Rajnai Rizling
|
2007
|
5+/6-
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Eezrjó
|
2007
|
6/6-
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Chardonnay
|
2007
|
6
|
|
|
|
VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Ludányi
|
Elizabeth Cuvée
|
2007
|
4-
|
Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine.
|
|
|
Degenfeld
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
3+
|
Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
|
|
|
Lesence
|
Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)
|
2007
|
6- (or 6)
|
Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light.
|
Top Wine
|
|
Tornai
|
Grófi Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
6, 6+
|
Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow.
This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
|
|
|
Dereszla
|
Dorombor
|
2007
|
6+, 7-
|
80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said
Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.
|
Top Wine
|
|
Orsolya
|
Pnot Noir
|
2006
|
5/5-
|
Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
|
|
|
Scheller
|
Áldozói Chardonnay
|
2003
|
7-
|
|
|
|
Pontica
|
(Móri) Ezerjó
|
2006
|
4+
|
It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there.
I’m curious about their new works.
|
|
|
Kikelet
|
Furmint (Tokaj)
|
2006
|
|
Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
|
|
|
Kikelet
|
Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
5+, (6-?)
|
Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
|
|
|
Orsolya
|
Hermány Leányka
|
2006
|
6
|
Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.
|
|
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Laposa
|
Olaszrizling
|
2005
|
5+
|
Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.
|
Fair value
|
|
Kreinbacher
|
Olaszrizling
|
2005
|
4
|
Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.
|
Overrated
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Olaszrizling
|
2006
|
6
|
Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.
|
Fair value, almost best buy
|
|
Tornai
|
Olaszrizling Selection
|
2006
|
6-, 6
|
Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.
|
Fair value, almost best buy
|
|
Laposa
|
Bazaltbor, juhfark
|
2006
|
5+
|
Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!
|
|
|
Tornai
|
Juhfark selection
|
2006
|
7
|
Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
5-
|
Apple.
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Tramini
|
2006
|
6
|
Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.
|
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)
|
Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
3+
|
Forgettable.
|
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
|
|
|
|
Kaló Imre
|
Leányka
|
2001
|
|
Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Hárslevelű
|
|
4
|
Average.
|
|
|
Tornai
|
Olaszrizling
|
|
4-
|
Sparkling. Cheap.
|
|
|
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.
|
Posted: January 5th, 2009
Categories:
Bock,
Bodri,
Bozóky,
Bussay,
Chateau Megyer,
Csányi,
Degenfeld,
Dereszla,
Ebner,
Eszterbauer,
Eurobor,
Gere Attila,
Gróf Buttler,
Györgykovács,
Gál Tibor,
Heimann,
Heumann,
Hilltop,
Hétszőlő,
Kaló Imre,
Kikelet,
Konyári,
Kreinbacher,
Laposa,
Lesence,
Ludányi,
Légli Ottó,
Malatinszky,
Maurus,
Mayer,
Miklóscsabi,
Monarchia,
Oremus,
Orsolya,
Pannonhalmi,
Pontica,
Ráspi,
Scheller,
Szabó Zoltán,
Szecskő Tamás,
Szt. Gaál,
Takler,
Tamás Pince,
Tornai,
Tóth István,
Velezvin,
Vylyan,
Wine reviews
Tags:
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Bezerics-Németh,
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Our Bikavér legacy is one of our largest burden from the socialist era (along with the semi-dry Nagyburgundi Kékfrankos and Debrői Hárslevelű). Wineries from Eger and Szekszárd were trying, but not exactly succeeded to contest who can produce better Bikavér (which I think is non-sense). Until the late nineties at least, when Tóth István produced his iconic Bikavér in 1999 and more or less decided the question for the next 9 years as many say so.
Or almost. Although a lost of people believe that the 1999 by Tóth István has remained unbeaten they must admit that the newest Tóth István Bikavér they could compare it with was the 2002 vintage. The normal (not Selection) Bikavér 2003 has been on the market for a year at least and the Selection 2003 will follow very soon (probably in September). The similarities with Brunellos does not stop here.
The review
Medium-ruby color with ink reflections and brownish rim.
The nose is berry fruits, mostly blackburry dissolved in Cognac. The style reminds me of Gróf Buttler’s. On the palate the oily tannic texture supports the Port-like (or even Cognac-like) impression which similar to the bouquet. The wine is as rich on the palate as on the nose.
Asian spices and sweetness mingled with smoky undertone. The age of the wine is obvious, but still well-rounded with medium body getting full-bodied after an hour. With it’s smooth tannins the wine is very pleasant to drink.
Hours later it shows cloudy purplish reflections.
With 20% discount at the retailer, it’s a best buy in the Bikavér areana. And I can’t wait to taste the 2003, which is supposed to be a better (although lately criticized) year.
Score: 6-7/10 (it really swings that much)
Price: HUF 3 500/ EUR 14 (full-price)
Posted: August 25th, 2008
Categories:
6 points,
7 points,
Eger,
Tóth István,
Wine reviews
Tags:
2002,
Bikavér,
red
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