Budapest Daily Review » Tamás Pince

Tamás Pince – Olaszrizling, 2007

admin — Thu, 25 Nov 2010 18:22:32 +0000

I didn’t disappear for more than a week because I didn’t drink anything good but because I’ve been drinking too much lately. Mostly in public and mostly way too much and I don’t expect that December would be any better. But fortunately I still managed to spend some quality time alone with some lovely wines, like this one right now when I’m writing this post and will publish soon, although not the subject matter Olaszrizling from Csopat but that’ll be another post anyway.

I asked the winemaker which is the single best white wine he’d recommend me to take away and he picked this one without any hesitation. Although I heard winemakers from North-Balaton complain about 2007 I took it. You may want to read about this visit and his Syrah 2006, and also about his artisanal ways here.

Tamás Pince – Olaszrizling, 2007

Mature, medium deep vibrant golden yellow. Very densely styled but fairly fresh nose, packed full of citrus fruits and mustard. It evolves into sweet citrus with a minerally uppertone. On the palate lively acidity carries a massive layer of minerality. Very much like Szabó Zoltán’s classic Rajnai Rizling except a fading tart finish and it’s a touch woody too. Very juicy with lemon zest and grapefuit flavoured acidity mingled with adorable salty minerality stretching into a long finish. It seems to develop a more moderately fresh, less acidic character with longer exposure to air.

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My feminine side (Tamás Pince – Syrah, 2006)

admin — Tue, 02 Nov 2010 15:00:41 +0000

The fact that a 5 kms (wet) distance that separates the Northern from the Southern Balaton wine region apparently makes red wine making impossible on the North is fascinating. In my pursuit of a fine Northern Balaton red wine I visited the small Tamás Pince in Csopak to find out about the prospects and the vintage of 2010.

Ever since I was introduced to Tamás wines about 5 years ago my perception about Tamás Pince was of a maker of good but not outstanding and a bit pricey wines. I didn’t take notice of his commitment to artisan wine making until recently, but that’s exactly why I decided to pay a short visit.

What I’ve found out about this year’s vintage is that it is going to yield somewhat (and not dramatically as elsewhere) less wine than usually and not too unexpectedly sugar levels are lower than as usual. You’ll find more, very useful information on the winery’s website about each wine (provided that you’re fluent in Hungarian), including details of the crop described with scientific precision and not so scientific information about the ageing potential of the wines (how does he know that stuff?).

Most of the tiny land is planted with Olaszrizling but I know it only too well so I become more interested in the red wines and I found Észak és Dél 2008, a blend of 40% Syrah by Tamás and 60% Cabernet Franc by Légli Géza from the South bank the finest of all. In general all the wines were decent wines of fresh and thin character and chosing one to take home proved to be difficult. I was told by Tamás on my hesitation that girls tend to chose the Syrah over Cabernet Franc, but I didn’t find the CF particularily boyish and I found the Syrah a bit more exciting.

Tamás Pince – Syrah, 2006

Fact sheet: Manually harversted, 27hl/ha. Aged in small second use oak barrels for 22 months.

Blurred pale ruby wine with a restrained nose of black pepper with a hint of toast.

Very tight, light and dry on the palate with lot of pepper flowing into a decent length with a sour element from the mid-palate. Fresh, almost vibrant acidity with well rounded edges, still it feels a bit over the top for this small-bodied wine. Not that expressive at present, the palate displays hints of unripe plum. But with an ageing potential of 18 years it’s too early to say.

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A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total

admin — Sun, 04 Jan 2009 22:00:38 +0000

What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.

One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.

Tasting Scores 2008

Vylyan	Pinot Noir	2003	5+/6-		(in Q2 2008)
Gál Tibor	Cabernet Franc	2001	4		(in Q2 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Furmint	2006	5+/6-		(in Q2 2008)
Szecskő Tamás	Cuvée	2005	6		(in Q2 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Portugieser	2006	7+		(in Q2 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Kadarka	2006	3+		(in Q2 2008)
Mayer	Kopár Cuvée	2004	3+		(in Q2 2008)
Szt. Gaál	Kékfrankos	2005	6-/6		(in Q2 2008)
Malatinszky	Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique	2006	3+	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Chateau Dereszla	Dorombor	2006	6+/7-	BB	(in Q2 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Kövérszőlő	2006	6+/7-		(in Q2 2008)
Bezerics-Németh	Chardonnay Barrique	2006	3-	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Vylyan	Montenuovo Cuvée	2006	6-		(in Q2 2008)
Cramele Halewood	Sauvignon Blanc	2006	5+	FV	(in Q2 2008)
Chateau Dereszla	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	6+	BB	(in Q2 2008)
Vylyan	Villányi Rizling	2006	3	OR	(in Q2 2008)
Dereszla	Dry	2006	5, 5+	FV	(in Q2 2008)
Oremus	Mandolás Furmint	2003	7, 7+	FV, BB	(in Q2 2008)
Szabó Zoltán	Sauvignon Blanc		6+, 7-	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Ebner	Chardonnay	2006	3+		(in Q3 2008)
Ebner	Portugieser	2007	3+		(in Q3 2008)
Bock	Merlot	2002	5+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Pontica	Móri Ezerjó	2006	7-	FV/BB	(in Q3 2008)
Degenfeld	Muscat Lunel	2007	4		(in Q3 2008)
Leo	Riesling	2006	3+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Hilltop	Chardonnay	2006	3	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Heimann	Merlot	2006	5, 5+	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Heimann	Kerkaborum	2006	6, 6+	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Bussay	Esküvé	2006	5	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Ch. Megyer	Chardonnay	2005	6, 6+	BB	(in Q3 2008)
Dereszla	Furmint Szegi	2006	5+		(in Q3 2008)
Heumann	Kékrankos Barrique	2006	6	FV (only just)	(in Q3 2008)
Toth István	Bikavér Válogatás	2002	6+/7-		(in Q3 2008)
Jamek	Riesling Jochinger	2007	5, 5+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Domane Wachau	Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel	2005	6, 6+	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Szelekcio	2006	5+, 6-	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Tokaj Hétszőlő	Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos	2001	8-	FV	(in Q3 2008)
Gere Attila	Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique	2000	4, 5-	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Gere Attila	Kopár Cuvée	2000	7+, 8-		(in Q3 2008)
Velezvin	Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée		4-		(in Q3 2008)
Pannonhalmi Apátsági	Rajnai Rizling	2007	4	OR	(in Q3 2008)
Légli Ottó	Olasrizling		3-	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Domb Cuvée	2005	5	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Légli	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	5+/6-	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc	2007	4/4-	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kadarka	2007	4		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció	2007	4-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Olaszrizling	2007	4-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Rosé	2007	5-/5		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kadarka	2007	4+		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Pinot Noir	2007	5		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Bikavér	2005	4		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kékfrankos	2006			(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Kékfrankos Szelekció	2004	5/6-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Optimus	2006	6/6-		(in Q4 2008)
Bodri	Merlot	2004	6		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	7	BB	(in Q4 2008)
Monarchia	Chardonnay (Battonage)	2006	7-/7	BB	(in Q4 2008)
Eurobor	Renana	2007	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Eszterbauer	Nagyapám	2006	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő	2003	6/6+ (6+/7-)		(in Q4 2008)
Tamás Pince	Oriolus Cuvée	2004	5+/6	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Gróf Buttler	Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500	2005	6-7		(in Q4 2008)
Takler	Cuvée Maffiózó	2000	5+/6- (6+)		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Mágus Cuvée	2006	6	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Eszterbauer	Merterünk Cuvée	2006	5	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Leányka	2007	3+ (but interesting)		(in Q4 2008)
Ráspi	Rosé Cuvé	2007	4		(in Q4 2008)
Monarchia	Grüner Veltliner	2006	3+	OR	(in Q4 2008)
Csányi Pincészet	Teleki cabernet Sauvignon	2006	4-	FV	(in Q4 2008)
Konyári	Loliense	2006	6-	OR	(in Q4 2008)

Wine Festival

Tasting Scores

Móri Bornapok 2008
On-site tasting notes.
Miklóscsabi	Utazótáska	2007	3+/4-
Bozóky	Leányka	2007	3+/4-
Bozóky	Cuvée	2007	4-
Bozóky	Ezerjó	2006	4
Miklóscsabi	Haramia Cuvée	2007	5
Maurus	Leányka	2007	4
Maurus	Sauvignon Blanc	2007	4+/5
Maurus	Rajnai Rizling	2007	5+/6-
Maurus	Eezrjó	2007	6/6-
Maurus	Chardonnay	2007	6

VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008
On-site tasting notes.
Ludányi	Elizabeth Cuvée	2007	4-	Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine.
Degenfeld	Furmint	2006	3+	Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
Lesence	Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)	2007	6- (or 6)	Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light.	Top Wine
Tornai	Grófi Hárslevelű	2006	6, 6+	Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow. This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
Dereszla	Dorombor	2007	6+, 7-	80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.	Top Wine
Orsolya	Pnot Noir	2006	5/5-	Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
Scheller	Áldozói Chardonnay	2003	7-
Pontica	(Móri) Ezerjó	2006	4+	It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there. I’m curious about their new works.
Kikelet	Furmint (Tokaj)	2006		Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
Kikelet	Hárslevelű	2006	5+, (6-?)	Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
Orsolya	Hermány Leányka	2006	6	Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
On-site tasting notes.
Laposa	Olaszrizling	2005	5+	Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.	Fair value
Kreinbacher	Olaszrizling	2005	4	Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.	Overrated
Györgykovács	Olaszrizling	2006	6	Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.	Fair value, almost best buy
Tornai	Olaszrizling Selection	2006	6-, 6	Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.	Fair value, almost best buy
Laposa	Bazaltbor, juhfark	2006	5+	Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!
Tornai	Juhfark selection	2006	7	Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.
Györgykovács	Furmint	2006	5-	Apple.
Györgykovács	Tramini	2006	6	Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)	Hárslevelű	2006	3+	Forgettable.
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)	Furmint	2006
Kaló Imre	Leányka	2001		Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!
Györgykovács	Hárslevelű		4	Average.
Tornai	Olaszrizling		4-	Sparkling. Cheap.
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.

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White pairs (Buttler and Tamás)

admin — Tue, 04 Nov 2008 17:14:48 +0000

There’s no concept behind picking the two following wines for a quick comparison. That wasn’t even the purpose actually, I just thought that it would be interesting to put them here side by side.

The reviews

Gróf Buttler – Pinot Blanc (Szelekció), Szarkás Dűlő, 2003

Another wine from Gróf Buttler’s first bottled vintage.

Very lively, dark golden color and a slow moving indicate great body. I am told that the wine requires some decanting before sniffing but I like the savoury character of the buquet so much that I start tasting it straight away.

The palate carries notes of marzipan and almond mingled with woody vanilla. It feels a bit old but not overly and I love the huge body and the extracts. A little bit imbalanced due to the lack of acidity and a lot of residual sugar but it’s just pleasant as it is. Later intense, very appealing (and even somewhat fresh) sun-dried apricot aroma on the palate.

An overall very good wine but could have more acidity left after 5 years. New-world fans will adore this wine.

Score: 6, 6+ points (now I feel it more like a 6+/7-, to be honest)

Tamás Pince – Oriolus Cuvée, 2004

Dark brassy color with golden reflexions.

The nose is succulent, at first very ripe, then sun-dried fruits. On the palate honey and burnt sugar/caramel notes. The wine is not as lively as the Buttler but very interesting and special. It has a huge body but unfortunately the palate doesn’t deliver the same intensity and isn’t so amazing as the nose. After a while the nose becomes even more exciting with floral, rosemary notes combined with egg liquor and green paprika accents.

Score: 5+ (now I would give it a 6, to be honest)

Price: HUF 4 500

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