Tamás Pince – Olaszrizling, 2007
I didn’t disappear for more than a week because I didn’t drink anything good but because I’ve been drinking too much lately. Mostly in public and mostly way too much and I don’t expect that December would be any better. But fortunately I still managed to spend some quality time alone with some lovely wines, like this one right now when I’m writing this post and will publish soon, although not the subject matter Olaszrizling from Csopat but that’ll be another post anyway.
I asked the winemaker which is the single best white wine he’d recommend me to take away and he picked this one without any hesitation. Although I heard winemakers from North-Balaton complain about 2007 I took it. You may want to read about this visit and his Syrah 2006, and also about his artisanal ways here.
Tamás Pince – Olaszrizling, 2007
Mature, medium deep vibrant golden yellow. Very densely styled but fairly fresh nose, packed full of citrus fruits and mustard. It evolves into sweet citrus with a minerally uppertone. On the palate lively acidity carries a massive layer of minerality. Very much like Szabó Zoltán’s classic Rajnai Rizling except a fading tart finish and it’s a touch woody too. Very juicy with lemon zest and grapefuit flavoured acidity mingled with adorable salty minerality stretching into a long finish. It seems to develop a more moderately fresh, less acidic character with longer exposure to air.
My feminine side (Tamás Pince – Syrah, 2006)
The fact that a 5 kms (wet) distance that separates the Northern from the Southern Balaton wine region apparently makes red wine making impossible on the North is fascinating. In my pursuit of a fine Northern Balaton red wine I visited the small Tamás Pince in Csopak to find out about the prospects and the vintage of 2010.
Ever since I was introduced to Tamás wines about 5 years ago my perception about Tamás Pince was of a maker of good but not outstanding and a bit pricey wines. I didn’t take notice of his commitment to artisan wine making until recently, but that’s exactly why I decided to pay a short visit.
What I’ve found out about this year’s vintage is that it is going to yield somewhat (and not dramatically as elsewhere) less wine than usually and not too unexpectedly sugar levels are lower than as usual. You’ll find more, very useful information on the winery’s website about each wine (provided that you’re fluent in Hungarian), including details of the crop described with scientific precision and not so scientific information about the ageing potential of the wines (how does he know that stuff?).
Most of the tiny land is planted with Olaszrizling but I know it only too well so I become more interested in the red wines and I found Észak és Dél 2008, a blend of 40% Syrah by Tamás and 60% Cabernet Franc by Légli Géza from the South bank the finest of all. In general all the wines were decent wines of fresh and thin character and chosing one to take home proved to be difficult. I was told by Tamás on my hesitation that girls tend to chose the Syrah over Cabernet Franc, but I didn’t find the CF particularily boyish and I found the Syrah a bit more exciting.
Tamás Pince – Syrah, 2006
Fact sheet: Manually harversted, 27hl/ha. Aged in small second use oak barrels for 22 months.
Blurred pale ruby wine with a restrained nose of black pepper with a hint of toast.
Very tight, light and dry on the palate with lot of pepper flowing into a decent length with a sour element from the mid-palate. Fresh, almost vibrant acidity with well rounded edges, still it feels a bit over the top for this small-bodied wine. Not that expressive at present, the palate displays hints of unripe plum. But with an ageing potential of 18 years it’s too early to say.
A Chronologic Journey Back to 2008 or the Hungarian Wine Grand Total
What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.
One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.
Tasting Scores 2008
|
Vylyan |
Pinot Noir |
2003 |
5+/6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gál Tibor |
Cabernet Franc |
2001 |
4 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Furmint |
2006 |
5+/6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szecskő Tamás |
Cuvée |
2005 |
6 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Portugieser |
2006 |
7+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Kadarka |
2006 |
3+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Mayer |
Kopár Cuvée |
2004 |
3+ |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szt. Gaál |
Kékfrankos |
2005 |
6-/6 |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Malatinszky |
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Chateau Dereszla |
Dorombor |
2006 |
6+/7- |
BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Kövérszőlő |
2006 |
6+/7- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Bezerics-Németh |
Chardonnay Barrique |
2006 |
3- |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Vylyan |
Montenuovo Cuvée |
2006 |
6- |
|
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Cramele Halewood |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2006 |
5+ |
FV |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Chateau Dereszla |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
6+ |
BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Vylyan |
Villányi Rizling |
2006 |
3 |
OR |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Dereszla |
Dry |
2006 |
5, 5+ |
FV |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Oremus |
Mandolás Furmint |
2003 |
7, 7+ |
FV, BB |
(in Q2 2008) |
|
Szabó Zoltán |
Sauvignon Blanc |
|
6+, 7- |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ebner |
Chardonnay |
2006 |
3+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ebner |
Portugieser |
2007 |
3+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Bock |
Merlot |
2002 |
5+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pontica |
Móri Ezerjó |
2006 |
7- |
FV/BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Degenfeld |
Muscat Lunel |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Leo |
Riesling |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Hilltop |
Chardonnay |
2006 |
3 |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heimann |
Merlot |
2006 |
5, 5+ |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heimann |
Kerkaborum |
2006 |
6, 6+ |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Bussay |
Esküvé |
2006 |
5 |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Ch. Megyer |
Chardonnay |
2005 |
6, 6+ |
BB |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Dereszla |
Furmint Szegi |
2006 |
5+ |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Heumann |
Kékrankos Barrique |
2006 |
6 |
FV (only just) |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Toth István |
Bikavér Válogatás |
2002 |
6+/7- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Jamek |
Riesling Jochinger |
2007 |
5, 5+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Domane Wachau |
Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel |
2005 |
6, 6+ |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Szelekcio |
2006 |
5+, 6- |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő |
Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos |
2001 |
8- |
FV |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila |
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique |
2000 |
4, 5- |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila |
Kopár Cuvée |
2000 |
7+, 8- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Velezvin |
Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée |
|
4- |
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pannonhalmi Apátsági |
Rajnai Rizling |
2007 |
4 |
OR |
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Légli Ottó |
Olasrizling |
|
3- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Domb Cuvée |
2005 |
5 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Légli |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
5+/6- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
4/4- |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kadarka |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció |
2007 |
4- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Olaszrizling |
2007 |
4- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Rosé |
2007 |
5-/5 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kadarka |
2007 |
4+ |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Pinot Noir |
2007 |
5 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Bikavér |
2005 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kékfrankos |
2006 |
|
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Kékfrankos Szelekció |
2004 |
5/6- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Optimus |
2006 |
6/6- |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Bodri |
Merlot |
2004 |
6 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
7 |
BB |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Monarchia |
Chardonnay (Battonage) |
2006 |
7-/7 |
BB |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eurobor |
Renana |
2007 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eszterbauer |
Nagyapám |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő |
2003 |
6/6+ (6+/7-) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Tamás Pince |
Oriolus Cuvée |
2004 |
5+/6 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Gróf Buttler |
Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500 |
2005 |
6-7 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Takler |
Cuvée Maffiózó |
2000 |
5+/6- (6+) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Mágus Cuvée |
2006 |
6 |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Eszterbauer |
Merterünk Cuvée |
2006 |
5 |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Leányka |
2007 |
3+ (but interesting) |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Ráspi |
Rosé Cuvé |
2007 |
4 |
|
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Monarchia |
Grüner Veltliner |
2006 |
3+ |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Csányi Pincészet |
Teleki cabernet Sauvignon |
2006 |
4- |
FV |
(in Q4 2008) |
|
Konyári |
Loliense |
2006 |
6- |
OR |
(in Q4 2008) |
Wine Festival
Tasting Scores
|
Móri Bornapok 2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Miklóscsabi |
Utazótáska |
2007 |
3+/4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Leányka |
2007 |
3+/4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Cuvée |
2007 |
4- |
|
|
|
Bozóky |
Ezerjó |
2006 |
4 |
|
|
|
Miklóscsabi |
Haramia Cuvée |
2007 |
5 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Leányka |
2007 |
4 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Sauvignon Blanc |
2007 |
4+/5 |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Rajnai Rizling |
2007 |
5+/6- |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Eezrjó |
2007 |
6/6- |
|
|
|
Maurus |
Chardonnay |
2007 |
6 |
|
|
|
VII. Pannon Bormustra – Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008 |
|||||
|
On-site tasting notes. |
|||||
|
Ludányi |
Elizabeth Cuvée |
2007 |
4- |
Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine. |
|
|
Degenfeld |
Furmint |
2006 |
3+ |
Furmint smell, bitterness, wood. |
|
|
Lesence |
Riesling (Rajnai Rizling) |
2007 |
6- (or 6) |
Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light. |
Top Wine |
|
Tornai |
Grófi Hárslevelű |
2006 |
6, 6+ |
Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow. This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just – not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it. |
|
|
Dereszla |
Dorombor |
2007 |
6+, 7- |
80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last. |
Top Wine |
|
Orsolya |
Pnot Noir |
2006 |
5/5- |
Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill. |
|
|
Scheller |
Áldozói Chardonnay |
2003 |
7- |
|
|
|
Pontica |
(Móri) Ezerjó |
2006 |
4+ |
It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there. I’m curious about their new works. |
|
|
Kikelet |
Furmint (Tokaj) |
2006 |
|
Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700. |
|
|
Kikelet |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
5+, (6-?) |
Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice. |
|
|
Orsolya |
Hermány Leányka |
2006 |
6 |
Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine. |
|
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008 |
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|
On-site tasting notes. |
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|
Laposa |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
5+ |
Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine. |
Fair value |
|
Kreinbacher |
Olaszrizling |
2005 |
4 |
Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier. |
Overrated |
|
Györgykovács |
Olaszrizling |
2006 |
6 |
Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling Selection |
2006 |
6-, 6 |
Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation. |
Fair value, almost best buy |
|
Laposa |
Bazaltbor, juhfark |
2006 |
5+ |
Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%! |
|
|
Tornai |
Juhfark selection |
2006 |
7 |
Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Furmint |
2006 |
5- |
Apple. |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Tramini |
2006 |
6 |
Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Hárslevelű |
2006 |
3+ |
Forgettable. |
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos) |
Furmint |
2006 |
|
|
|
|
Kaló Imre |
Leányka |
2001 |
|
Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%! |
|
|
Györgykovács |
Hárslevelű |
|
4 |
Average. |
|
|
Tornai |
Olaszrizling |
|
4- |
Sparkling. Cheap. |
|
|
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities. |
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White pairs (Buttler and Tamás)
There’s no concept behind picking the two following wines for a quick comparison. That wasn’t even the purpose actually, I just thought that it would be interesting to put them here side by side.
The reviews
Gróf Buttler – Pinot Blanc (Szelekció), Szarkás Dűlő, 2003
Another wine from Gróf Buttler’s first bottled vintage.
Very lively, dark golden color and a slow moving indicate great body. I am told that the wine requires some decanting before sniffing but I like the savoury character of the buquet so much that I start tasting it straight away.
The palate carries notes of marzipan and almond mingled with woody vanilla. It feels a bit old but not overly and I love the huge body and the extracts. A little bit imbalanced due to the lack of acidity and a lot of residual sugar but it’s just pleasant as it is. Later intense, very appealing (and even somewhat fresh) sun-dried apricot aroma on the palate.
An overall very good wine but could have more acidity left after 5 years. New-world fans will adore this wine.
Score: 6, 6+ points (now I feel it more like a 6+/7-, to be honest)
Tamás Pince – Oriolus Cuvée, 2004
Dark brassy color with golden reflexions.
The nose is succulent, at first very ripe, then sun-dried fruits. On the palate honey and burnt sugar/caramel notes. The wine is not as lively as the Buttler but very interesting and special. It has a huge body but unfortunately the palate doesn’t deliver the same intensity and isn’t so amazing as the nose. After a while the nose becomes even more exciting with floral, rosemary notes combined with egg liquor and green paprika accents.
Score: 5+ (now I would give it a 6, to be honest)
Price: HUF 4 500
