2003 produced some of the first really remarkable great white wines this country’s seen in this millennium (just think about Mandolás Furmint). We learend to appreciate this vintage even more after the tough 2004 and 2005 vintages. The glory of most of these wines, however, didn’t last for more than 4 years, some of them starting a sharp decline as early as in 2006. On the other hand, some of these wineries couldn’t repeat their performance up until now (again, think about Mandolás). The wines from the north bank of Balaton have been having hard times as well. Still, or maybe because if this, I was very happy to discover this already forgotten Kereklevelű (known as Chardonnay beyond the Carpathians) in my cellar from Tóth Sándor (aka Scheller).
The review
Medium-deep hay on the glass, the wine opens slowly to show some flinty notes on the nose. On the palate an almond element mingles with lot of rustic, but attractable minerality. This latter becomes denser, just as the whole wine, after one hour and a half. Medium-large bodied wine supported by lower-medium acidity (which means there could be a little bit more) and a slightly bitter minerality. A bit sweet, the wine is still fresh and in good shape right now with soft, slightly sandy tannin. The marzipan and almond is later faded by dried apricot and even richer minerality. I sometimes sense a botrytis-ish element in the background.
This wine will give you lot of pleasure for only HUF 1 600 especially if you can give it an hour or so before drinking.
Score: 5+
Price: HUF 1 600
I first appreciated the affordable wines of Paternina of Rioja on my first trip to Madrid and the Banda Azul brand accompanied us through our journey through Toledo, Córdoba, Sevilla, Ronda, Cabo de Gata to Segovia. When we went back few years later to visit le Pays Basque and País Vasco, we visited their winery near Haro (I think, btw, that everyone should visit that land if for nothing else but their tapas bars). I picked up a cheap Chardonnay there, from 2006. This ultra-light wine of pale greenish color is fresh and young with a celery and fennel character supported by crisp acidity in smaller quantity. It’s still slightly sparkling on the palate. This wine is a decent 3+ points effort and provided a good basis of comparison to the very different Áldozóhegyi.
02
Feb
Author: admin | Category:
Balatonfelvidék,
Scheller,
Wine reviews
That good wines are to be found on the north bank of Balaton I knew ever since I met the Figula winery in the late nineties. It’s just difficult to find them, I suspect because of the tourists flooding the region during summer period and these crowds don’t seem overly wine-conscious people. I’ve been back to Badacsony once or twice since I blocked that beautiful mountain out because of one particular “winemaker”, but I wasn’t impressed (with few exception like Laposa) and I never got to meet the Domaine Edegger people (they were always closed when I passed by). Tamás Pince is amazing but expensive and Figula keeps up to its name with Mihály Jr. in the cockpit. I encountered a few light, promising wines during this summer’s Füred Borfeszivál (wine festival) but the only truly exciting winemaker in the region to me remained Tóth (Scheller) Sándor. (I keep on searching though)
The Scheller winery’s website is a joke (www.schellerbor.iweb.hu/) and since internet is my prime source of information I won’t be able to tell what exactly this cuvée was made of.
The review - Tóth Sándor (Scheller) - (Áldozóhegyi) Opeonbor, 2003
Medium pale golden yellow color and a fast move.
The nose is clean, with cheerful floral (and slightly herby) aromas and a stony undertone. Very light too, not intense at all. Later it will have a light tangerine/lemon peel note too.
Very appealing texture on the palate but even this medium-small bodied wine would require more acids. The mineral notes mingle with litchi, but not very expressively. The wine still offers a young, fresh sensation in spite of its age and it’s still pretty enjoyable. Only the acids disappeared too early.
Score: 5-/- (it probably used to be a 5+ 2 years ago)
Price: HUF 1 650
05
Jan
Author: admin | Category:
Bock,
Bodri,
Bozóky,
Bussay,
Chateau Megyer,
Csányi,
Degenfeld,
Dereszla,
Ebner,
Eszterbauer,
Eurobor,
Gere Attila,
Gróf Buttler,
Györgykovács,
Gál Tibor,
Heimann,
Heumann,
Hilltop,
Hollóvár,
Hétszőlő,
Kaló Imre,
Kikelet,
Konyári,
Kreinbacher,
Laposa,
Lesence,
Ludányi,
Légli Ottó,
Malatinszky,
Maurus,
Mayer,
Miklóscsabi,
Monarchia,
Oremus,
Orsolya,
Pannonhalmi,
Pontica,
Ráspi,
Scheller,
Szabó Zoltán,
Szecskő Tamás,
Szt. Gaál,
Takler,
Tamás Pince,
Tornai,
Tóth István,
Velezvin,
Vylyan,
Wine reviews
What a modest title. I came up with it in only 1 minute of thinking. In my defense: it’s search-engine friendly and it’s true, from my perspective. Anyway, here’s the almost complete list of tasted wines and their score from 2008.
One remark, except the festival notes, all reviews were written based on at least 1/2 bottle of wine tasted by me alone over several hours, at least once over this period. Even wines presented in quick notes. Any occasional exception was mentioned in the given post, but they were maximum 2 or 3, if any.
Tasting Scores 2008
|
Vylyan
|
Pinot Noir
|
2003
|
5+/6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gál Tibor
|
Cabernet Franc
|
2001
|
4
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
5+/6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szecskő Tamás
|
Cuvée
|
2005
|
6
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Portugieser
|
2006
|
7+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Kadarka
|
2006
|
3+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Mayer
|
Kopár Cuvée
|
2004
|
3+
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szt. Gaál
|
Kékfrankos
|
2005
|
6-/6
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Malatinszky
|
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Chateau Dereszla
|
Dorombor
|
2006
|
6+/7-
|
BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Kövérszőlő
|
2006
|
6+/7-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Bezerics-Németh
|
Chardonnay Barrique
|
2006
|
3-
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Vylyan
|
Montenuovo Cuvée
|
2006
|
6-
|
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Cramele Halewood
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2006
|
5+
|
FV
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Chateau Dereszla
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
6+
|
BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Vylyan
|
Villányi Rizling
|
2006
|
3
|
OR
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Dereszla
|
Dry
|
2006
|
5, 5+
|
FV
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Oremus
|
Mandolás Furmint
|
2003
|
7, 7+
|
FV, BB
|
(in Q2 2008)
|
|
Szabó Zoltán
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
|
6+, 7-
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ebner
|
Chardonnay
|
2006
|
3+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ebner
|
Portugieser
|
2007
|
3+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Bock
|
Merlot
|
2002
|
5+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Pontica
|
Móri Ezerjó
|
2006
|
7-
|
FV/BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Degenfeld
|
Muscat Lunel
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Leo
|
Riesling
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Hilltop
|
Chardonnay
|
2006
|
3
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heimann
|
Merlot
|
2006
|
5, 5+
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heimann
|
Kerkaborum
|
2006
|
6, 6+
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Bussay
|
Esküvé
|
2006
|
5
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Ch. Megyer
|
Chardonnay
|
2005
|
6, 6+
|
BB
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Dereszla
|
Furmint Szegi
|
2006
|
5+
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Heumann
|
Kékrankos Barrique
|
2006
|
6
|
FV (only just)
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Toth István
|
Bikavér Válogatás
|
2002
|
6+/7-
|
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Jamek
|
Riesling Jochinger
|
2007
|
5, 5+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Domane Wachau
|
Riesling Smaragd Singerriedel
|
2005
|
6, 6+
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Szelekcio
|
2006
|
5+, 6-
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Tokaj Hétszőlő
|
Aszú Hárslevelű, 5 Puttonyos
|
2001
|
8-
|
FV
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila
|
Cabernet Sauvignon Barrique
|
2000
|
4, 5-
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Gere Attila
|
Kopár Cuvée
|
2000
|
7+, 8-
|
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Velezvin
|
Etyek-Budai Zengő, Zenit, Zefír Cuvée
|
|
4-
|
|
(in Q3 2008) |
|
Pannonhalmi Apátsági
|
Rajnai Rizling
|
2007
|
4
|
OR
|
(in Q3 2008)
|
|
Légli Ottó
|
Olasrizling
|
|
3-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Domb Cuvée
|
2005
|
5
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Légli
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
5+/6-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Tűzkő Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
4/4-
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kadarka
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Sauvignon Blanc Szelekció
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Olaszrizling
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Rosé
|
2007
|
5-/5
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kadarka
|
2007
|
4+
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Pinot Noir
|
2007
|
5
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Bikavér
|
2005
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kékfrankos
|
2006
|
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Kékfrankos Szelekció
|
2004
|
5/6-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Optimus
|
2006
|
6/6-
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Bodri
|
Merlot
|
2004
|
6
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
7
|
BB
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Monarchia
|
Chardonnay (Battonage)
|
2006
|
7-/7
|
BB
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eurobor
|
Renana
|
2007
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eszterbauer
|
Nagyapám
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Pinot Blanc Szelekció, Szarkás Dűlő
|
2003
|
6/6+ (6+/7-)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Tamás Pince
|
Oriolus Cuvée
|
2004
|
5+/6
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Gróf Buttler
|
Syrah, Nagy-Eged, 400-500
|
2005
|
6-7
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Takler
|
Cuvée Maffiózó
|
2000
|
5+/6- (6+)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Mágus Cuvée
|
2006
|
6
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Eszterbauer
|
Merterünk Cuvée
|
2006
|
5
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
3+ (but interesting)
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Ráspi
|
Rosé Cuvé
|
2007
|
4
|
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Monarchia
|
Grüner Veltliner
|
2006
|
3+
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Csányi Pincészet
|
Teleki cabernet Sauvignon
|
2006
|
4-
|
FV
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
|
Konyári
|
Loliense
|
2006
|
6-
|
OR
|
(in Q4 2008)
|
Wine Festival
Tasting Scores
|
Móri Bornapok 2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Miklóscsabi
|
Utazótáska
|
2007
|
3+/4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
3+/4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Cuvée
|
2007
|
4-
|
|
|
|
Bozóky
|
Ezerjó
|
2006
|
4
|
|
|
|
Miklóscsabi
|
Haramia Cuvée
|
2007
|
5
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Leányka
|
2007
|
4
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Sauvignon Blanc
|
2007
|
4+/5
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Rajnai Rizling
|
2007
|
5+/6-
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Eezrjó
|
2007
|
6/6-
|
|
|
|
Maurus
|
Chardonnay
|
2007
|
6
|
|
|
|
VII. Pannon Bormustra - Bországgyűlés (Wine Festival) in 08/06/2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Ludányi
|
Elizabeth Cuvée
|
2007
|
4-
|
Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not too interesting wine.
|
|
|
Degenfeld
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
3+
|
Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
|
|
|
Lesence
|
Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)
|
2007
|
6- (or 6)
|
Elegant acid and nose, nice finish. Easy, light.
|
Top Wine
|
|
Tornai
|
Grófi Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
6, 6+
|
Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow.
This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just - not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
|
|
|
Dereszla
|
Dorombor
|
2007
|
6+, 7-
|
80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said
Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.
|
Top Wine
|
|
Orsolya
|
Pnot Noir
|
2006
|
5/5-
|
Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
|
|
|
Scheller
|
Áldozói Chardonnay
|
2003
|
7-
|
|
|
|
Pontica
|
(Móri) Ezerjó
|
2006
|
4+
|
It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there.
I’m curious about their new works.
|
|
|
Kikelet
|
Furmint (Tokaj)
|
2006
|
|
Outstanding aromas, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
|
|
|
Kikelet
|
Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
5+, (6-?)
|
Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
|
|
|
Orsolya
|
Hermány Leányka
|
2006
|
6
|
Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.
|
|
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Laposa
|
Olaszrizling
|
2005
|
5+
|
Good start. Light, fresh, friendly wine.
|
Fair value
|
|
Kreinbacher
|
Olaszrizling
|
2005
|
4
|
Deeper colour, grassy smell and taste. Heavier.
|
Overrated
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Olaszrizling
|
2006
|
6
|
Light in color. Round. A lovely bitter edge at the end. Fresh, almost crispy.
|
Fair value, almost best buy
|
|
Tornai
|
Olaszrizling Selection
|
2006
|
6-, 6
|
Round wine, but not perfectly balanced: it requires a bit more acid. Extremely friendly wine. Floral and earthy smell, smooth taste but not overly spicy. Nice finish (only some acid missing). Surprisingly low alcohol (11,5%). Mouthfilling sensation.
|
Fair value, almost best buy
|
|
Laposa
|
Bazaltbor, juhfark
|
2006
|
5+
|
Tuttifrutti and hay in smell. Hay in taste too. Hot aftertaste. Alcohol 14,5%!
|
|
|
Tornai
|
Juhfark selection
|
2006
|
7
|
Even for those who don’t like juhfark, this friendly version of it makes it more drinkable than its harsh companions. Could have some more acid, but otherwise round and well balanced. Vanilla is present but not too oaky. Long lasting taste, great finish.
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
5-
|
Apple.
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Tramini
|
2006
|
6
|
Intense, grassy and gooseberry smell. Well balanced. Residual sugar and acid at finish. Interesting wine. Smell of traubi*.
|
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)
|
Hárslevelű
|
2006
|
3+
|
Forgettable.
|
|
|
Hollóvári (Takács Lajos)
|
Furmint
|
2006
|
|
|
|
|
Kaló Imre
|
Leányka
|
2001
|
|
Intense nose, not so fresh, but elegant. Not too sweet, but some acid would do well for this wine. Very nice finish. 14,7%!
|
|
|
Györgykovács
|
Hárslevelű
|
|
4
|
Average.
|
|
|
Tornai
|
Olaszrizling
|
|
4-
|
Sparkling. Cheap.
|
|
|
A non-alcoholic drink produced in the socialist era in Hungary. Still produced in smaller quantities.
|
08
Jun
Author: admin | Category:
3 points,
4 points,
6 points,
7 points,
Degenfeld,
Dereszla,
Festivals & events,
Lesence,
Ludányi,
Mór,
Orsolya,
Pontica,
Scheller,
Shopping,
Tokaj,
Tornai,
Wine reviews
I don’t even dare to translate the word “Bországgyűlés” for You, although the significant number of foreigners who visited the event despite the heavy rain which lasted almost the whole day would deserve a try. Anyway, it wasn’t a gathering of the nations’ parliamentary delegates of winemaking as the name would suggest, I was actually surprised by the small number of wineries present, but even more by their distribution within the festival area. Despite the intense grass and other natural smell coming from the surrounding park in the rain I tried to take tasting notes. My idea was that I would taste and review the winners of the VIIth Pannon Bormustra contest. Unfortunately very few of the winners actually exhibited at the Festival so I’ll indicate in the table below those who won the “Top Wine” awarded by a jury consisting of international experts like Dante Brancaleoni and winemakers like René Rostaing as well as Hungarian wine drinkers or so called experts. As always, please read the following report as a rough guide only, since I hardly ever spit during a wine tasting (unless the wine is really rubbish) and the local food selection has also provided a strong smelly background which certainly distorted the senses. So here’s a quick snapshot from the Festival, without any in-depth analysis.
|
Somlói Tavasz fesztivál (Somló Spring Festival) 2008
|
|
On-site tasting notes.
|
|
Ludányi
|
Elizabeth Cuvée
|
2007
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4-
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Hydrogen Sulphide gas smell. Not very interesting wine.
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Degenfeld
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Furmint
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2006
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3+
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Furmint smell, bitterness, wood.
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Lesence
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Riesling (Rajnai Rizling)
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2007
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6- (or 6)
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Elegant acid and smell, nice finish. Easy, light.
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Top Wine
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Tornai
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Grófi Hárslevelű
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2006
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6, 6+
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Not being a Hárslevelű fan myself, this was my first surprise this day. More really good Hárslevelű were to follow.
This one has deep corn color, has honey and burnt sugar smell besides tropical fruits. The acids can almost balance the intense smell/taste, but only just - not. A little carbon dioxide makes it refreshing though. And it has vanilla in taste too. A really lovely wine for both beginners and maybe even for snobbish drinkers. I like it.
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Dereszla
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Dorombor
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2007
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6+, 7-
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80% Furmint, 20% Hárslevelű. Excellent combination, resulting in a very intense, fresh smell rather Hárslevelű-type. The 13,5% alcohol is supported by nice acid. Cinnamon, or rather apple pie in smellGrass and vegetables are also present, but not the usual ones! My wife said
Dorombor was lemonade with lime. I am looking forward to find out how long the integrity of Furmint and Hárselvelű will last.
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Top Wine
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Orsolya
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Pnot Noir
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2006
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5/5-
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Orsolya has been one of my favorite emerging wineries. The smell of their wines are almost unbeatable. This Pinot is a bit of exception, nice light Pinot smell but less intense than you would expect from Orsolya and Zoltán. It’s still a good wine, but not exceptionnel. I am told that Orsolya Pincészet’s stocks are empty, so we have to wait ‘til next year for a fresh refill.
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Scheller
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Áldozói Chardonnay
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2003
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7-
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Pontica
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(Móri) Ezerjó
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2006
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4+
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It’s a very strong 4+ for this young and small winery. It’s dry, but tastes a bit sweet and rustic, but acid is also not missing. I no longer remember why only gave 4+ points to them. I even purchased a whole bottle for HUF 1 700 right there.
I’m curious about their new works.
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Kikelet
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Furmint (Tokaj)
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2006
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Outstanding smell, exceptionnel Furmint. Somewhere in between the Szepsy and Hétszőlő schools. Very interesting. A bit of wood taste disturbs. A bit expensive too for a Furmint at HUF 2 700.
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Kikelet
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Hárslevelű
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2006
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5+, (6-?)
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Elegant, subtle Hárslevelű, a little bit of sweetness makes it fashionable. Even the bitterness in the finish is nice.
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Orsolya
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Hermány Leányka
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2006
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6
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Incredible smell as usual from Orsolya Pince. This wine might require some acid, but it’s weighty and has a nice although not fresh finish. Interesting wine.
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Here’s a photo from the venue of one of Budapest’s most important wine festivals.
