Blend of Sauvignon Blanc, Olaszrizling and Riesling, this wine is pale lemon yellow. Fairly fruity on the nose, light and fresh. On the palate it’s small-medium bodied with fresh, young and crisp acidity which will smoothen with time. Fair amount of pear and apple over a thin layer of vegetable notes of parsley and kohlrabi. A light scratchy tartness at the finish.

Ottó Légli has, in total, 33 ha vineyards mostly on the small hills of the Balatonboglár region. According to his credo, his aim is to make the wine express the utmost harmony of natural values of the wine such as fruitiness, acidity, freshness and of dedicated human efforts.The vine composition of the plantations is as follows:

Chardonnay 7,7 ha, Olaszrizling 5 ha, Rajnai Rizling 4,8 ha, Sauvignon Blanc 3,6 ha, Pinot Noir 4 ha, Merlot 2 ha, Kékfrankos 1 ha, Pinot Blanc 0,5 ha, Rizlingszilváni 0,4 ha, Muscat Ottonel 0,3 ha, Irsai Olivér 0,3 ha, Zenit 0,3 ha, Zöldveltelini 0,2 ha, under reconstruction 2,9 ha.

I picked an affordable middle-range wine (he produces wines for the budget consumers as well as for the wealthy Hungarians, and a range in between). I was a bit disappointed lately with the lower-end sortiment, so I’ve been looking forward to the more expensive range with mixed expectations.

Légli – Landord, 2007

Medium yellow-golden color, clean and bright and the wine has an appealing move in the glass.

This Chardonnay has a very attractive nose: intense, but very elegant acacia honey with floral edge. Very refreshing. It has a mouth-filling presence on the palate too with grapefruit and other citrus elements, supported by round, fresh, elegant acidity. Remarkable, excellent balance. More than medium bodied with a nice structure with a good deal of salty-minerality making it even more exciting, completed by an apricot aroma undertone. Complex, but not heavy wine, although heavy enough to accompany the 14% alcohol. The acids are lovely and they’re trimming well the residual sugar.

Later the nose will have a marzipan note too and the palate a more Chardonnay vinous character.

The smart use of polished oak is interesting and pleasant.

This is the last great Chardonnay in a row of three in only a few months. The three came from 3 different regions in the small Hungarian land. The three are priced around HUF 3 000 which, of course, qualifies them for best buy. Something to think about.

Score: 7, 7+

Price: 3 500 (on sale, normally 4 000)

Medium pale golden color.

The nose carries notes of – not kidding – meat and chicken soup with nettle. Interesting. Very pleasant, and so is the aromatic floral action on the palate. Round, fresh acidity on both back-end sides of the tongue is supporting the residual sugar which is a little bit too much by the way. Later pineapple and salt join the game.

The finish is surprisingly short, even the acidity disappears quite quickly. Otherwise this would be a well-balanced, friendly fresh wine with well polished palate. It’s price’s between fair and a bit too much. And I don’t think you should leave this wine aging too old.

Score: 5+, 6-/10

Price: HUF: 2 940/EUR 12

Who’s to blame if the wine clearly doesn’t deliver the expected quality: the winery, the retailer or the wine critics? 

Olaszrizling is homeground for Légli Ottó so I wasn’t suspicious when I bought the bottle (20%, must be a bargain!) although I didn’t like the label (yes, it does count). I’ve always had a very positive attitude to Légli and I was really looking forward to a nice evening. 

The review

Lots of bubbles when uncorked and a pale golden tone in colour. It has a pleasant apple pie nose with cinnamon and some lemon accent. 

On the palate a rather unpleasant sour acidity. Bitter but somewhat refreshing too. The wine is medium-thin with hardly noticeable fruits and minerality. The unripe apple isn’t sufficient to provide body to it. The wine doesn’t improve after an hour. 

Major disappointment. 

Score: 3- points

Price: HUF 2 300 (EUR 8,5 – retail)