News for December 2010

About the best of 2010

Twenty years ago, in a much simpler world (with the eyes of a teenager) I had ready answers for the questions of “best of” lists. Metallica was the best band (before the black album, of course), Catch 22 was the best book ever and black skinny jeans with a converse and a skinny The Cult t-shirt was the best outfit. Some years ago the world stopped being black and white and so straightforward. There’s no best of. And there’s no favorite either. I don’t have a favorite book or album any more or band, for that matter. There’s plenty of good stuff however, and there’s even more rubbish. Why would wines be any different?

Still, there could be best of some things. Like the best label quality and best technology wines are undoubtedly Sauska’s. But all the rest would be too obscure. Best terroir wine? Nonsense. Best winemaker? Let’s set up the criteria first. Or better not. Best wine? Who could tell?

I was thinking about the best hangover for a few minutes, but I gave up. Then more interesting questions came to my mind. Like best pairing of beetroot and wine, what would that be, anyone?

And eventually a vague conjecture’s become a more and more objective, clear and transparent recognition, a rock solid conviction that the best blog about Hungarian wines written in English language is Budapest Daily Review. Let’s face it, it’s also the worst blog about Hungarian wines written in English language, but that’s another list.

Instead of the best of list, here’s some very personal thoughts to wrap up this year.

- Bad news for red wine fans: good white wines in Hungary still outnumber the good red wines. Good news: I’m no longer a hard core red wine fan.

- The best white wines still come from Tokaj, and still come sweet. This, unfortunately, does not fit the current wine consumer trends.

- My interest in Furmint and Olaszrizling have increased, while Riesling remains my personal favourite white varietal.

- Some regions are more and more exciting: Somló and south of Balaton are definitely worth to be followed closely.

- I no longer think that Hungarians should not produce Pinot Noir and Syrah. There are good examples of both  out there.

- There’s still no such a thing as Hungarian style as long as wines are concerned. In fact, we have no clue what Hungarian wines should be like, except maybe the tiny Tokaj region but even there are major issues, and here we come to our next serious problem which is

- the lack of a much needed proper classification system in Hungary. I suggested a system similar to the German, especially the Rhine region’s system some time ago and I stil believe in it.

- I’m still convinced that Hungarian wines, especially the reds, are overpriced and are not competitive on international scale. And they’ll continue to be. That’s because we’re too introverted, narrow-minded, coward and assertive to face this all, and we have a very selective memory as long as history is concerned.

- I’m convinced that the best  Hungarian wines are those which are unique, or at least different, in some way, or otherwise interesting.

Thank you very much for reading this blog. Although I’d be much happier if you’d participate more in the discussion (this is a blog, after all). I don’t know for how long this blog will be going on, 2010 was all about Facebook, Twitter, Kindle and iPhone apps so blogging’s become a bit outdated. But I’m not on facebook and I’m not Lady Gaga either to use Twitter to spread my thoughts so if you come back tomorrow, you probably going to see me writing about the 3 sparkling wines I’m planning to finish off today and tomorrow morning (a Kreinbacher rosé Brut, a Moet Imperial and a Szentesi Pinot Noir rosé Brut).

I wish you all a very happy new year and a full glass of good Champagne for tonight!

Ps: read more printed books!!! Or simply read more books! And buy vinyl!

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Posted: December 31st, 2010
Categories: Notes
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Comments: 1 Comment.

St. Andrea beyond blessing (Hangács Bikavér 2008)

Hangács Bikavér 2008 is almost identical to Áldás 2008 (aka El fin de la inocencia) except that it’s not. And not just that Syrah didn’t make it to the blend at Hangács (and it’s not the less oak either). It looks like only Pinot Noir did. Hangács Pinot Noir 2006 wasn’t a huge wine itself but I wonder if Hangács Pinot Noir 2008 is any different from the Bikavér Blend made in 2008.

St. Andrea – Hangács Bikavér, 2008

Medium ruby, clear and lively. Spicy bouquet with hints of anise, clove and Açaí berry, very Pinot Noir-esque. Fresh but warm style on the palate with very smooth tannins and a sour cherry core bitterness. Loose in terms of structure, thinner than Áldás first, as far as I can judge, but feels bit more weighty after some exposure to air. The acidity remains a bit scratchy on the midpalate for hours but the palate will be packed full of fine dark chocolate.

Should be decanted long before drinking. Not so expressive at present, this Bikavér may still age better than Áldás 2008.

One more remark: this wine shouldn’t have passed the Bikavér examination. Because it’s not one.

Price: HUF 3 750

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Posted: December 6th, 2010
Categories: St. Andrea
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Quality acid tsunami from the highlands (Rizling vlašský)

I’ve been looking forward to this post for, like, ever. Here it is.

Bott Frigyes – Rizling vlašský, 2009

Vibrant lemon hue. The nose is sweet, stylish minerality with an almond accent. Very attractive.

Clear and clean character with firm acidic determination. This prickling mineral acidity is rigorously accentuated throughout the palate, rebalanced by some residual sugar or alcohol (14%). Robust acidity with a tasty chalky salty charm.

I think it’s a tremendous wine. Forget fruits. This is pure acid filtered through the savory chalky peaks of the Carpatians.

How to drink? Better served chilled and decanted an hour before drinking. It goes well with a slightly cooler or warmer bottle of the same wine.

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Posted: December 3rd, 2010
Categories: Bott Frigyes, Felvidék
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