Somló thinks globally, acts locally (vol. 3)

So this is the rest. As it turns out global varietals fit Somló quite well. No conclusion here. Except maybe that quality correlates more with wineries than with the varietal, but that’s stating the obvious. Another personal impression is that the unique styles of each winery (I mean, of those who have one) overwrites the terroir and the grape’s character.

Hollóvár, Sauvignon Blanc – Very expressive mineral nose of flint and floral elements. Fruits remain subtle. A little bit sweet on the midpalate with notes of elderberry and minerality. This wine’s still too obviously young but I’m already missing some acidity here. Score: 4+

Bazaltbor (Laposa), Rizling – This one has an ample nose full of apple aroma, quite fruity with apple elements on the palate too. Lime-freshness and a yet bit harsh acidity. Score: 4+

Hollóvár (Takács Lajos), Furmint – Another very expressive flint nose with a bit more sweetness on the palate than the Sauvignon Blanc. Also on the nose floral notes. It’s quite light, medium-bodied with a less firm structure than the Furmint but it’s more friendly on the palate. Score: 6

Kreinbacher, Furmint – Bright deep golden color. Rich bouquet of chicken stock, with a curry aroma and of ground raw cereals. This medium-bodied wine has some sweetness well balanced with sea salt on the palate. Quite rich with a fair depth of flavour. It has a soft texture.  Nice creamy vanilla flavour and some minerality.  Score: 7-/7

Kreinbacher, Öreg Tőkék, 2006 - This one has a light and very pleasant melted butter nose, quite elegantly styled. Not as well-balanced as  the Furmint and it has a more harsh texture too. On the palate harsh, tart acidity. Score: 6

Kreinbacher – Hárslevelű – This one has a fresh, light, rich aromatic nose with pear and a flint stone underpinning. On the palate it’s creamy, soft, almost full-bodied with melted butter aromas. It’s a little bit sweet with salty veggie soup elements and a long finish. Quite good. Score: 6, 6+

Somlói Apátsági Pince, Hárslevelű – Intense but light nose with vanilla notes. It’s sweet and sea salty just as the Juhfark but with greater body. Score: 6, 6+

Spiegelber, Furmint – Rich in vanilla aromas, maybe the use of oak is a bit over the top. Could be better structured, it’s a bit more rustic than the other Spiegelbers I’d just tasted. Score: 5, 5+

Tornai, Hárslevelű – Dry, light nose. Quite simple on the palate with some sea salt and a tart acidic finish. Score: 3, 4-

Tornai, Apátsági Furmint 2006 – Oaky vanilla elements on the nose. There’s a decent amount of residual sugar to balance the acidic character of the palate of this medium-bodied wine. Score: 5, 5+

Dénes, Chardonnay – this Chardonnay has a rather unusual flint stone nose with grappa accent and a floral undertone. It’s too much. On the palate it’s refreshingly sparkling and has a polished txture. This could be a very popular entry-level wine. Score: 4. A cuvée has also been made by this small, emerging winery from Ság-hegy ,a blend of Cserszegi Fűszeres, Furmint, Ezerfürtű and Olaszrizling. It’ s a light, pleasant semi-dry wine which drink well chilled (alc 11%). Another interesting wine was the Furmint Late Harvest.