Viognier international perspective

That I know little about Viognier grapes is an understatement and we Hungarians have a handicap in learning about it. Incidentally I bought one in the Lubéron which is very close to where this grape’s the most famous in the old world. I also happened to pick a Viognier at Klassz restaurant the other day so now I had a chance to at least try to learn something about this wine which is supposed to be easy to like.

So the Heimann winery’s Viognier from 2007 had an appealing medium-deep golden color and a not too intense, floral nose with a papaya undertone. On the palate a blend of tropical fruit aromas stand alone. Not acidic nor has it particularly lot of residual sugar, indeed, it’s very dry and the 14% alcohol isn’t disturbing either. The wine still has a bit less than medium body but a very short finish. Despite the shortcomings it’s still an enjoyable wine wroth 4+ points.

After I hadn’t been sure about whether I had a real Viognier experience yet I opened the Chateau Blanc’s Viognier, Vieilles Vignes of 2004. The name tells us that the grape was harvested from old vines and I have on doubt. I bought the wine at the cellar from the owner himself and I’ve left the winery full of good impressions (further enhanced by the enchanting paysage, several square kilometers covered in lavender slightly curved by the breeze coming from the Mont Ventoux’s direction in the sunshine…). The yield was less than 30 hectoliters per hectare. The ripe grapes were picked with hand. The juice underwent malolactic fermentation in the barrique and daily stirring of the lee (battonage). Left in the oak for 6-8 months and bottled in spring 2005.

The medium deep golden color is similar to the Heimann’s. The nose, on the other hand, is very different: full of very intense perfume of floral aromas and this intensity will last for at least 24 hours (when I finished the bottle). But not a usual floral note as it can be found in other wines too, this is something different I cannot really describe mingled with vanilla and a stewed apple undertone.

The palate shows an oaky vanilla dominance with a similar floral character as the nose. Now, it became obvious that this wine’s over its peak and not just because of low level of acidity and the imbalance caused by it but the palate could be fresher, plus it also could have less residual sugar to deal with. The finish is short and this wine has more vanilla than anything else. Very little of the grape. I beginned to think that I was sensing fresh sawdust impregnated with fine vanilla. Today this wine deserves no more than 4 points which is a pitty because I’m sure it sused to be more only a year ago. So the EUR 8,95 is not so much for it after all.