Scheller (Tóth Sándor) – Áldozóhegyi Kerekvelevű, 2003
Author: admin | Category: 5 points, 6 points, Balatonfelvidék, Best price, Scheller2003 produced some of the first really remarkable great white wines this country’s seen in this millennium (just think about Mandolás Furmint). We learend to appreciate this vintage even more after the tough 2004 and 2005 vintages. The glory of most of these wines, however, didn’t last for more than 4 years, some of them starting a sharp decline as early as in 2006. On the other hand, some of these wineries couldn’t repeat their performance up until now (again, think about Mandolás). The wines from the north bank of Balaton have been having hard times as well. Still, or maybe because if this, I was very happy to discover this already forgotten Kereklevelű (known as Chardonnay beyond the Carpathians) in my cellar from Tóth Sándor (aka Scheller).
The review
Medium-deep hay on the glass, the wine opens slowly to show some flinty notes on the nose. On the palate an almond element mingles with lot of rustic, but attractable minerality. This latter becomes denser, just as the whole wine, after one hour and a half. Medium-large bodied wine supported by lower-medium acidity (which means there could be a little bit more) and a slightly bitter minerality. A bit sweet, the wine is still fresh and in good shape right now with soft, slightly sandy tannin. The marzipan and almond is later faded by dried apricot and even richer minerality. I sometimes sense a botrytis-ish element in the background.
This wine will give you lot of pleasure for only HUF 1 600 especially if you can give it an hour or so before drinking.
Score: 5+
Price: HUF 1 600
I first appreciated the affordable wines of Paternina of Rioja on my first trip to Madrid and the Banda Azul brand accompanied us through our journey through Toledo, Córdoba, Sevilla, Ronda, Cabo de Gata to Segovia. When we went back few years later to visit le Pays Basque and País Vasco, we visited their winery near Haro (I think, btw, that everyone should visit that land if for nothing else but their tapas bars). I picked up a cheap Chardonnay there, from 2006. This ultra-light wine of pale greenish color is fresh and young with a celery and fennel character supported by crisp acidity in smaller quantity. It’s still slightly sparkling on the palate. This wine is a decent 3+ points effort and provided a good basis of comparison to the very different Áldozóhegyi.
June 30th, 2009 at 1:37 pm
Hi,
I discovered this Áldozóhegyi Kereklevelű two years ago. I bought it in Maligán for 900 HUF or so (just to try it). When I tasted it I was so surprised that I tryed two more bottles immediately. They were perfect so I bought a larger amount and fortunately I have still a couple of bottles of it.
I totally agree with your review about the wine. It is a rustic one, but sometimes I definitely need that kind of “heavy fuel”. And the price was ridiculous.
June 30th, 2009 at 2:18 pm
Hi,
I didn’t taste it earlier but it’s in pretty good shape right now and although I’m always very careful with this, I think this Kereklevelű has another 1-2 years of aging potential. I only wish it had a bit more acidity, then I would say let’s keep a few bottles for 5-10 years…
And btw, what about the more recent vintages? Are they any good near to this one?
November 11th, 2009 at 3:12 am
Hi Guys,
This wine has an excellent price/quality ratio.
If you want to age the wine for 1-4 more years that should not be a problem. I would say aging it for 5-10 years might be pushing it. The reason you may not taste a lot of “acidity” is because it underwent malolactic fermentation which only enhanced its character. The acids are there but they are much “rounder”.
It is a smart buy ;^) Enjoy!
R