Akutyafáját 2007 by St. Andrea

Funny name, funny label, so refreshing to see after having seen so many chateaux emerging from nowhere – as I write this I realise that as a rule of thumb you could easily pick mediocre wines simply by selecting one from one of the many Hungarian “chateaux” (there are exceptions though). The fact is, there are virtually no chateaux left in Hungary and even less with a history in winemaking. Hétszőlő actually has a chateau but they’re not calling themselves chateau (although they’re owned by French, well partly). Akutyafáját reminds me of Orsolya Pince’s early labels, drawings made by children, now by a teenager, all suggesting that we all (in the wine scene) are taking ourselves too seriously. The whole scene btw reminds me of a song by The Cribs (Hey Scensters), a great (probably the greatest) indie band currently being ruined by Johnny Marr. But Akutyafáját is different, also from Eger, from a wineamker who apparently thinks a lot about his wife (or he’s more ironic than we’d think), this wine is simple and straightforward: affordable, lovable, and Hungary’s mass market needs wines just like this one. It has somewhat of a terroir character, something of Eger but it’s also very accessible by everyone. Believe me. Here’s why. The nose is full of spices, clove mainly, mingled with some burnt wood and cherry/sour cherry – already very attractive (the wine needs that to be honest, it’s appearance is quite regular, medium-pale ruby, nothing exceptionnal there). Fresh, slightly scretchy tannins first on the palate supporting a rather sweetish, friendly character. Firm, but not overly, with young but gentle tannins providing excellent backbone for this rather small-medium bodied wine full of freshness and fun, with notes of cinnamon falvoured apple pie and cherry compote. Fairly good length with just a hint of bitterness to be detected sometimes, more than that dried thyme and savory. This wine is excellent for long, friendly conversations, or for exhausted folks like myself drinking and blogging. I’m a fan of St. Andrea and only now I realise that this is the first post about one of the best wineries of Eger (and Hungary).

And this is the best red wine I’ve seen under HUF 2000 for, like, ever…

Score: 5+

Price: HUF 1 845

ps: I’d like to dedicate this wine (and post) to a friend from Eger who turned 34 today and will become a father in a couple of days. He has no idea about I writing this blog and I hope he’ll never have, but I hope Samu won’t have to waste so many brain cells as we did in the nineties by drinking rubbish Eger wines. So cheers, for a better future.

Comment from Jónás Csaba - September 3, 2009 at 3:16 pm

Nice wine, nice post. I have raved about it here: http://alkoholista.blog.hu/2009/05/12/oromborok_4 BTW the name of the winery is St. Andrea.

Comment from admin - September 3, 2009 at 6:07 pm

True, thanks, I changed it.

Based on your notes I think I was dealing with the Pinot-based version.

Comment from Pardi Norbi - September 4, 2009 at 11:07 am

Hi,

I agree with your description related to this particular wine. A very nice red under 2000 HUF. In general, St. Andrea’s red wines are mostly good but the whites…Well, they are too oaky for me (in addition, they’re bloody expensive). I tried all the whites from 2005 and 2006 and I didn’t like them at all. I couldn’t feel the fruit itself only vanilla and spices coming from the barrel. But a lot of people like this style so I don’t think that this will ever change.

If you are looking for nice Hungarian reds under 2000 HUF you can find some (although it is not easy). Check some wines for example from Tüske winery (merlot 2006) Eszterbauer winery (Nagyapám kadarka 2008, Pinceátlag 2007), Vida Péter (CF 2006), Thummerer winery (Blauburger 2006).

Comment from admin - September 4, 2009 at 11:54 am

Hi Norbi,

Thanks for the recommendations, I’ve never tried the Vida CF 2006 and the Blaugurger 2006. I’m constantly hunting reds under HUF 2 000 and I find it particularly hard.

I was told that Halmosi Kékfrankos 2007 is not bad either so I bought one bottle yesterday, I’ll drink it within a few weeks and let you know how it was.

Comment from John - September 4, 2009 at 10:01 pm

Dear Admin. (how I wish I knew your name!),

This really is a winery to watch. Thus far, pricing will remain an issue, but quality won’t – are my guesses.

Comment from admin - September 8, 2009 at 8:51 pm

Sorry for the belated answer I’m currently abroad without any internet access (up til now, and now my computer battery’s down so…). From now on you can call me “the w(h)ineguy I’ll explain the anonimity later, I know that conversation with “admin” is annoying but there a reason.